Starter replacement

Nick1233

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Anybody know if there are any "tutorials" on changing starters on Intrigues? I've seen the posts with the diagram but I was thinking that it may not be very clear for some people, and actual pics might help. I'm going to be changing mine out within the next hour or two and could take step by step pics if someone wants me to attempt a tutorial thread for it.
 
Couple of bolts (if there is a shim make sure you re-install it); pretty simple I think. You may need to remove the torque converter cover (three bolts).

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Yeah, the pictures didn't end up happening (rain, time crunch, dead batteries, basically fubar) but it wasn't really that hard. Just the two bolts for the starter, remove wires, change CKP sensor if you're doing that, wire new starter, re-bolt. Anybody know if it's normal for oil on the CKP sensor?
 
Yeah it normal for the oil to be on that sensor, the block has a hole so the sensor knows where the crank is, I haven't done the camshaft sensor just yet but I'm pretty sure it's gonna have oil on the tip too since it has to know where the cam is at.
 
How about around the plugs? There was a little around the plugs when I changed them, most of it was under the coil pack. I know my PCV was pretty much shot (I changed it right after I saw that) but any other reason for that?
 
How about around the plugs? There was a little around the plugs when I changed them, most of it was under the coil pack. I know my PCV was pretty much shot (I changed it right after I saw that) but any other reason for that?

Oil leaks anywhere are not "normal," and indicate a need for a repair. Oil leaks under the coil pack will eventually cause a misfire, if not an outright fire. You will probably need to replace the valve cover gasket, along with the spark plug hole seals.

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Alright, I'll have to keep an eye on that. Couldn't tell if it was only the front since I couldn't see into the back but I don't remember seeing oil on any of the parts. Also, replaced the starter and crank sensor but still having starting issues. Sometimes it wants to crank for a few seconds, then "catch" a little, and sputter and die. Other times it goes right away, and others it just cranks and cranks. Fuel pressure regulator? I'm about to go check the vacuum line right now.
 
Vacuum line was clear, no gas or even gas smell coming from it. So it wasn't the starter, fuel pressure regulator, or crank sensor (just tossed that in since i replaced that too). Any ideas? The car isn't running rough or having any other issues other than the starting problems.
 
Alright, I'll have to keep an eye on that. Couldn't tell if it was only the front since I couldn't see into the back but I don't remember seeing oil on any of the parts. Also, replaced the starter and crank sensor but still having starting issues. Sometimes it wants to crank for a few seconds, then "catch" a little, and sputter and die. Other times it goes right away, and others it just cranks and cranks. Fuel pressure regulator? I'm about to go check the vacuum line right now.

The crank sensor is a two-in-one. Intermittent extended crank times can be a symptom that one of them has died, or that there is a problem in the wiring to it. I know you just replaced it, but it is what it is.

Also, is there any relationship to whether you've just filled the tank or removed the gas cap? This sounds a lot like what my SRX V6 did when the evap emissions solenoid valve died.
 
I replaced the crank sensor and the starter less than a week ago, and I'm still having the intermittent extended cranks.
 
I replaced the crank sensor and the starter less than a week ago, and I'm still having the intermittent extended cranks.

OK, well, not sure why the starter was suspect. By extended cranks, you mean takes a while to start even though the starter engages, right? I assume the cranking speed is ok, and that the battery voltage remains high during the crank?
 
Well I just replaced the starter to see if that helped, plus I figured it's coming up to winter and why chance it. And yes, it will crank for a few seconds and either just keep cranking or it will eventually start. It will usually start right away after I drive it for a bit, even if it sits for a couple of hours. It is kind of one of those problems where you notice it all the time but if you were to take it to a mechanic that would be the time it wouldn't happen. The crank speed is normal, and I haven't checked the voltage while I start it.
 
Forgot to add that my ignition switch was also rebuilt recently (less than 5k miles ago). That was because of an unrelated issue though.
 
When the ignition switch is replaced, is that they key tumbler or another switch behind it? Or both? I'm still experiencing some intermittent starting problems, thinking about throwing that job in for good measure.

My car is at the Cadillac dealer right now. They have not been able to duplicate what vexed me for a whole day last week. Starts fine for them every time.

I'm also speculating that maybe it is time to order fresh keys off the VIN. The ones I'm using are 11 years old after all, and wearing flat in spots. Perhaps as well I should make a habit of keeping the ignition key separate from my general key chain.

And if all that doesn't work, there is "Passlock Bypass". Many 1990s era GM cars seem to have starting gremlins because of Passlock security. This site sells modules to circumvent the Passlock. http://www.passlock2.com/
.
 
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Update: the problem is fixed, it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. There was no gas or gas smell in the vacuum line but I replaced it anyway because it's a cheap part. Between the new regulator and the new starter, my 'trigue starts like it's brand new.
 
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