I finally got around to doing this, though it was kind of by accident. I had decided to hold off on doing the control arm stuff since the bushing and ball joint still looked okay, but I needed to remove the ball joint from the knuckle to get the axle out and change the inner CV boot. In doing so, I ripped the boot on the ball joint. So I had to replace that and figured I might as well do the front bushing while I was at it.
A couple pieces of advice:
When drilling out the rivets on the ball joint, you'll need to go pretty big on the drill bit size, and drill clean through one side of it (not the bottom, you'll want to have that in tact in order to punch it out, as JustinTime noted earlier) before it'll budge. With even a millimeter or two remaining all around, I couldn't get it to budge much. I experienced this on not one but two control arms, find out why down below.
When installing the control arm back on the car, be REALLY careful not to scrape the ball joint on the knuckle. I did, and ripped the boot. Oops, good thing I had two. Also, angle the joint forward (toward the car) and it'll be a lot easier to slide into the knuckle.
Pay attention to where the bushing ends and the control arm begins. I thought there were two lips of metal on the bushing. There were not. I cut clean through the ring of metal on the control arm that holds the bushing. The new bushing went in fine, but with the integrity of the metal ring compromised, I figured it was only a matter of time before the bushing worked itself out. So off to the junk yard to pick up a new used control arm, where I answered the question I started this thread with. A control arm from a Regal, Grand Prix or Century is identical, despite the difference in part numbers on RockAuto. I got one from a 2000 GP GTP, and there is no difference. Hope this helps someone else in the future. Thanks to JustinTime for the original tips and photos for doing this, they helped immensely.
, which is why I took them.)
