Few Questions about 1989 Custom Cruiser

[Dead Reckon]

Alright, would link photo's, but I can't, so I'll send a photobucket link in a private message if you want.

My father is selling me a 1989 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser for $650, has body damage, needs two doors and a fender, runs and drives, needs tie rods and suspension work. As well as tires, and bodywork. It has a new transmission. 307, TH700R4, power everything, like new interior, limo black tinted windows (Like, mafia staff car dark).

My questions are as follows

First, I hate the wire spoke hubcaps that are on it, they are annoying to clean, annoying to work around, and they eat valve stems. So I'm removing them, and since it's indecent exposure to leave the car's nuts showing, I was wondering, where might I find some decent aftermarket 15" wheels to fit this beast? They have to be affordable, I'm not paying a fortune for wheels. I don't want flashy, bright, or chrome, I just want black wheels. Something that looks better than steelies. Speaking of the wire spokes, if anyone wants them, once I remove them, I will send them as long as you pay shipping. Free road dirt included, no extra charge! I'll pressure wash them, spray some cleaner on them, but I'm not scrubbing them much. They have the center caps, I will get some photo's if you're interested.

So, have any recommendation for the wheels? 16's would work too, I'd rather use 15's, however.

Second, the stereo, I listen to old rock, new metal, some old metal, and a little bit of electronic music. I know there are 4x10's in the rear sails, and 3.5's in the dash. I was planning on putting kickers in, but does anyone know of any modifications I can do to put in better speakers? I know about the 4's in the doors trick, I don't like that and I'm too lazy to pull wiring into the doors.

I'm also planning on, for now, using an old Kenwood tape deck, don't know the model, my friend refurbished it and put a 3.5mm headphone jack input on it. I'll have to find the knob and shaft dash piece, this one has the 1.5 DIN dash piece.

I also plan on putting in a Bazooka tube with an MTX amplifier, any notes on where to put the amplifier, a place where it will not cook, without removing the spare tire?

For the record, this car has the third row seat, so the "Hole" is not an option for the amp, I am not removing that seat, it is factory, and I do not think anyone has ever sat in it, I also don't think the rear seat has ever been folded flat. Which is rather bizarre, these cars where frequently used as trucks. That's how we use our '86.

Lastly, what of the exhaust? I plan on swapping the 307 later on for a 350, I know I cannot run true duals due to the fuel filler line, and fuel tank, however, can I run at least 1 3" line? What are my options for a good, refined, not raspy, exhaust system for a 350? Currently the 307 has a like new exhaust system, and, until the 307 gives me problems, it is not going anywhere.

I'm hoping the transmission is a multi-hole, won't know until we have the car on a friends lift later on. It's one of those super high lifts, so, if you're, oh say, 6'6", you don't brain yourself on the pumpkin. I, however, am not that tall, but the man who owns it is, nonetheless, he'll let me use it briefly.

Thanks for any help you can give me, again, if you want a link to my photobucket album to see the car, I'll send it too you in a private message.

 

[Prostreetcutlass]

wowsers.....dude i dont know where to begin.....honestly.......thats a 100 dolla no more car.....650 he is over charging you....you have like a g note just to get it back to stock issue....damaged this and that, replacing this and that.....i'd worry about researching the car parts first before worrying about the stereo....lol 4x10's can be adapted over to 6x9's though.....as for exhaust....here's the stats about that

single exhaust systems:
100HP you will require 2"
160HP you will require 2.25"
250HP you will require 2.50"
300HP you will require 3"

hope this helps you out...lol

 

[Dead Reckon]

It does seem a bit steep, but it's what the car is worth in scrap weight.

For the record, the funding from thsi car is coming from a 2001 Chrysler Sebring, I am buying it, it has a bad Cam position sensor, $33 15 minute fix. $700 for the car, 166k miles, I'm going to sell it. They bring about $3,000 around here. More people are looking for family cars than family vans, two kids instead of three or five. The economy sucks, unless you've got an affordable sedan to sell.

Therein, I am realistically setting the current starter budget for this car at $2,400, conservatively. I have to give my father a little for helping me sell the car.

Anyhow, I was just curious about the stereo options. I was not aware how much was wrong when I asked about it. As for the sub, to hell with it, I'm too lazy to run wiring. And, I'm just gonna get a new deck for it. Mostly so I can use an iPod nano 1st gen 2GB we found in our house... Not entirely sure where it came from, but who cares?

The main thing I am worried about, posted in another thread is, the suspension is bad. Like, completely bad. Needs shocks, springs, the works. What should I do to prep this car to make it road safe?

I know it needs tie rods, a centerlink, an idler arm, all of that will be changed. Hell if I had the money I'd tear the entire car apart and rework it all. But I don't, so basically what I'm asking is, what ABSOLUTELY has to be changed in order for a 350 swap to work properly, and most of all, safely.

So, any place to get good springs and shocks that'll actually hold the weight of that tank?

As for the wheels, settled on a pair of Wheel Vintiques Series 66, check 'em out on summit racing. Backspacing is 4 inches, offset is -12mm, 16x8", and of course, 5x5 lug pattern. Gonna paint 'em black and throw on some baby moon hubcaps. Any thoughts on these wheels?

Will the wheels fit? I know the lug pattern is right, but what about the back spacing? I'd like to get a set, paint 'em black, slap on some beauty rings and chrome valve stems and valve covers. Simple old wheels.

Tires, 235/75-15 is what my father runs on his '86 Custom Cruiser. I was thinking of running 235/70-16. VERY close in size to each other, thoughts? Suggestions?

And of course, as for building the 350, I want a combination of power and affordability (including at the pump). Any suggestions? For the record, it has the original 307. I like the 307, it's a tough motor, but it has no power.

As for the trans, I was thinking of using a 700 series like what's in it, with an electronic lockout torque converter. Set it up to shift quick, I hate lag between gears, it does not go well with my lead foot.

I understand the car as is, probably only gets about 15MPG at best with my lead foot, the 350 will hopefully get the same.

Lastly, exhaust, what are the options? I am not exactly comfortable with modifying the crossmember to fit true duals, nor am I comfortable running exhaust lines over the fuel filler neck. I was thinking of just running a 3" line all the way back, then having a single outlet 3" muffler firing out just behind the pass side tire. However, is it possible that I could run them so they both come out just behind the bumper, one on each side off a dual outlet 1.5" muffler? I'd like to do it that way, but is there room to do that?

I can't seem to get my father to discuss this until I "Have the money in my hand", even then he'd probably just get pissed and tell met o do it his way without asking. It's rather annoying. He knows what I need to know about it, but he won't tell me. He thinks it's hopeless, one step at a time, I like to plan ahead, far, far ahead.

So basically, spill it, honestly, what do you think? What do I need to know about this swap? Should I do it later and run the 307 for now? What should I do?

Sorry for the semi-random layout of all this, it's just how it comes out of my brain, in a semi-assorted order.

Thanks again for the reply, hope to hear back.

 

[Prostreetcutlass]

first off....is this the station wagon looking one?? if it is your RWD already so the cross member can stay actually and what you do is run the y pipe and the cross it back over making it a dual but not a true dual. true duals you still should cross them. as far as front suspension wise....you can leave it as the 307 and the 350 arent all that much different in weight....depending on the year in mind of course....but with that being said.....my car was originally a stock v6 3.8L olds cutlass supreme, i purposely blew the engine so i could drop '68 350 4bolt main, 3spd trans 3600 stall and a 4 link in the back....totally different surcumstances but anyways....lol all i did was ordered a nice set of shocks that were for a v8. the springs in the back however are from a 1980 station wagon, which are a few inches taller...
AS far as back spacing, back spacing is measured by using a piece of steel across the rim. you have to make sure you are not up on the tire at all. at this point drop your measuring tape/stick.....down and record from the backmount of the rim to the steel edge and this is your back spacing....
when it comes to this car in a DIY area, its not hard at all, you seem quite smart but do one thing at a time, marking anything down like measuring between the wheels front and back for tie rod alignment, measure ride height front and rear, cause trust me, you'll run into where your standing there saying how did that look now.....measurements, pictures....a mans best friend!! lol
What kind of engine are you looking at droppin in? you said 350, but are you referring to the chevy or oldsmobile version?? both will fit in, one you may have to purchase different mounts but thats all....