I thought I would share a fix for this issue. Over the years my 2001 Intrigue odometer was getting dimmer and dimmer even though the left dimmer switch was increased. It eventually went out completely. This is bad as my fuel pump gas level gauge is broken, and I just go by refilling when the trip odomoter reaches about 400-450 km.
To fix the issue, one needs to remove two Philips screws under the black instrument cluster oval shroud. You can move the steering wheel down out of the way. I loosened the left side of the lower beige dash clading by pulling just enough to free the black shroud clip. From there one can pull at the lower left and right of the black oval shroud to unclip it.
Remove it partly and unclip the black and red trip/odometer reset connector on the left. You can bend the shroud a little to get it out. Remove the four Philips screws holding in the instrument cluster being careful not to drop any screws (*NB).
The panel should come out easily enough to detach the wiring connector at the right top corner. It just pulls out. From there you unclip the series of black clips around the back and ease it off making note of a small black prong that connects into the small PCB board for the PRNDL lights. Do not damage this!
The main PCB board lifts off away from thee gauge layer that has connector pins that slide into the PCB. Find the three cylindrical resistors at the left of the odometer display at the top. These may look fine, but due to vibration and heat there likely are cold solder joints that have developed. Using a soldering iron, apply some additional solder being sure to have it flow onto the pad and around the ends of the resistor. Repeat for the other two. When reassembling, clip the small PCB board in first then the main one. *** Align the outside black cover so that the singular small black prong extends into the hole of the small PCB board.*** This is important as you can snap the little prong off like I did. It's not a big deal but just disappointing.
Reassemble in reverse order as above being super careful NOT to drop any screws for the panel unlike what I did. Otherwise you may need to pry open the lower cladding even more and remove the bottom half of the steering wheel plastic housing cover (a big pain) to get to where the screw went to. If you need the remove the steering column lower cover make note that the back of it has two upward pointing circular flat hooks that latch onto the upper shell hinges. You have to push back on the lower shell to unlatch them. This adds a lot of time to what would be a quick job!
To fix the issue, one needs to remove two Philips screws under the black instrument cluster oval shroud. You can move the steering wheel down out of the way. I loosened the left side of the lower beige dash clading by pulling just enough to free the black shroud clip. From there one can pull at the lower left and right of the black oval shroud to unclip it.
Remove it partly and unclip the black and red trip/odometer reset connector on the left. You can bend the shroud a little to get it out. Remove the four Philips screws holding in the instrument cluster being careful not to drop any screws (*NB).
The panel should come out easily enough to detach the wiring connector at the right top corner. It just pulls out. From there you unclip the series of black clips around the back and ease it off making note of a small black prong that connects into the small PCB board for the PRNDL lights. Do not damage this!
The main PCB board lifts off away from thee gauge layer that has connector pins that slide into the PCB. Find the three cylindrical resistors at the left of the odometer display at the top. These may look fine, but due to vibration and heat there likely are cold solder joints that have developed. Using a soldering iron, apply some additional solder being sure to have it flow onto the pad and around the ends of the resistor. Repeat for the other two. When reassembling, clip the small PCB board in first then the main one. *** Align the outside black cover so that the singular small black prong extends into the hole of the small PCB board.*** This is important as you can snap the little prong off like I did. It's not a big deal but just disappointing.
Reassemble in reverse order as above being super careful NOT to drop any screws for the panel unlike what I did. Otherwise you may need to pry open the lower cladding even more and remove the bottom half of the steering wheel plastic housing cover (a big pain) to get to where the screw went to. If you need the remove the steering column lower cover make note that the back of it has two upward pointing circular flat hooks that latch onto the upper shell hinges. You have to push back on the lower shell to unlatch them. This adds a lot of time to what would be a quick job!
Last edited: