Intrigue Temperature Problems

M

mike529

New member
Joined
Sep 25, 2005
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Points
0
2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue V6-214 3.5L VIN H SFI


Thermostat - High Temperatures/Overheat Condition

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Higher Than Normal Temperature Gauge Reading or Overheat Condition in Cold Weather (Install Enhanced Thermostat)

Models:
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue
with 3.5 L Engine (VIN H - RPO LX5)

Condition

Some customers may comment that their vehicle displays a higher than normal temperature gauge reading or may overheat in cold weather. This will generally occur while idling or driving slowly in traffic during colder weather, usually less than 0°C (32°F), with the heater control set to maximum heat and fan speed. If all published diagnosis from the appropriate applicable service manual has been performed without success then an enhanced thermostat may need to be installed.

Cause

The engine thermostat may not provide adequate coolant flow.

Correction

Perform all published diagnostics from the appropriate Service Manual and any repairs that may be indicated. If these have been performed without success, then an enhanced thermostat should be installed. A thermostat with improved coolant flow has been developed for the 3.5 L engine applications listed above. For complete detailed instructions on the proper installation of this thermostat, refer to the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual.



Parts Information

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Copyright © 2007 ALLDATA

This is exactly what happens with my 2000 Intrigue.

I just got back from having my car serviced at a local shop for this problem. They had a hard time finding a cause for the problem. They guessed I needed a new themostat, but didn't sound too sure. I just had them do a flush and fill. When I got home I looked my car up on alldatadiy.com and found that above message.


I was hoping that the flush and fill would cure my problem, but it didn't. To install a new thermostat, does that mean I have to waste the new coolant that was just put in?

Do I have to go to the dealer for the "enhanced thermostat"?

Mike
 
You could always catch the coolant in a clean container and re-use it, if I had just put it in, I wouldnt hesitate to catch it and re-use it. I would even implement a highly sophisticated redneck filtration system involving a couple coffee filters to make sure no little particles found there way into the system as I was pouring it back in.

I dont really know what the "enhanced thermostat" consists of, I looked on GM Parts Direct, but their lovely new catalog shows one for a 3.1 and 3.8 engine on a 2000 Intrigue...so thats not very helpful.

I had been having this problem a little bit myself, I went out and bought a new thermostat and intended on replacing it, but then I stopped having the problem for a while, not too mention I didnt want to buy a couple gallons of coolant at 10 bucks a pop, plus get cold:)

I would just buy a thermostat from an Auto Parts store, a thermostat is a pretty simple device I would think, I dont see how one can be more "enhanced" than the other. I paid 10.99 plus tax for one at Autozone, but Im taking it back tomorrow. You couldnt touch one at a dealer for that.

It seems to work better if I allow the car to sit and warm up for a while before I leave the house, alleviating the need to run the max heat and fan speed.
 
I got the thermostat replaced at Firestone today. Driving home the temperature gauge went all the way to hot and this time a little red indicator light under the gauge came on...which had not happened before.
They also replaced the radiator cap. Said it "looked bad".
Any guesses as to what I can try next?

Mike
 
mike529 said:
I got the thermostat replaced at Firestone today. Driving home the temperature gauge went all the way to hot and this time a little red indicator light under the gauge came on...which had not happened before.
They also replaced the radiator cap. Said it "looked bad".
Any guesses as to what I can try next?

Mike
Click to expand...

Ok the "HOT TEMP" dash light was lit and the gauge was in the red zone! But was the engine boiling over and filling the boil over tank? Do you think your engine was HOT?

If was going to guess I would say CTS sensor. This sensor can be tested with a ohm meter in the car. Do the test while eng is cold and hot see what the difference is. You are not alone with this problem, sence your car is a newer one you might try autozone for a free scan, the scan will inform you of temp output of CTS, compare that with what dash guage pointer.
 
I haven't mentioned it yet because I figured it has nothing to do with my current problem, but last week around the time I noticed the temp gauge problem I got a service engine soon light warning and the trac off and PCS lights also came on. Got a scan done at Autozone and they had me replace the crankshaft positioning sensor. That fixed my warning light problems. The next day is when my temperature gauge problems really got bad.

Don't know how the 2 could be related but thought I would throw it out there just in case.

Mike
 
mike529 said:
I haven't mentioned it yet because I figured it has nothing to do with my current problem, but last week around the time I noticed the temp gauge problem I got a service engine soon light warning and the trac off and PCS lights also came on. Got a scan done at Autozone and they had me replace the crankshaft positioning sensor. That fixed my warning light problems. The next day is when my temperature gauge problems really got bad.

Don't know how the 2 could be related but thought I would throw it out there just in case.

Mike
Click to expand...

Im glad you did mention this, it could have a lot to do with it, it affects your timing. The computer may be relearning with the new part, I would think this would happen quickly though. I would get the car scanned again ask the guy at what temp is when the fan coming on, a good scanner will tell you this.

I ask again do you think your car was actually hot?
 
FWIW, my gut feeling is that the car isn't actually overheating. I'm not too car savvy and didn't want to mess around opening a possibly overheating cars hood to find out. If I do, what can I look for or touch(such as hoses) to help figure it out?

BTW I didn't do the relearn after installing the crankshaft sensor. After we put it in, the trac off and pcs lights weren't on anymore, and the next morning the service engine light shut off after driving for a half a block.
 
When I began noticing the temp gauge problem 5 days ago. It seemed that when I was driving steady, the gauge stayed around the 1/2 point but when moving slowly or idling i would watch it get hotter and hotter until i started driving faster again, then it would cool back to 1/2.
As of the past few days the gauge seems to move up and down more frquently irregardless of speed or idle unless I really drive it hard, then it does seem to bring the gauge back down.
 
mike529 said:
When I began noticing the temp gauge problem 5 days ago. It seemed that when I was driving steady, the gauge stayed around the 1/2 point but when moving slowly or idling i would watch it get hotter and hotter until i started driving faster again, then it would cool back to 1/2.
As of the past few days the gauge seems to move up and down more frquently irregardless of speed or idle unless I really drive it hard, then it does seem to bring the gauge back down.
Click to expand...

What I ment by re-learning was the new part is sending good signals to the computer, the old part must have been doing something different, the computer may have made some adjustments on it own, now with getting good signals it needs to adjust again.

If you see this condition again ( gauge & Light) I would pull over pop the hood and check the overflow tank, just look for bubbels, dont touch anything, just look, leave the car running while you do this, also check to see if fan is running, it should be!.

Before you leave the house while eng is cold take the radiator cap off and see if radaitor is full, fill if needed. also check tank, fill to cold line. If the car starts to overheat it will fill this tank up and maybe over.

I have a post going on over in the cutlass FWD fourm, this is simular to your problem.
Your car has OBD11 their are codes that relates the coolant sensors for your car, you might want to check them out. If you take your car to get the codes read write them down, and come back here.
 
Just thought Id add, the Intrigue doesnt actually have a radiator cap, its a sealed system. The only cap it has is the one for the overflow tank. I would assume thats how the system is filled.

Something to consider now is air in the lines, was the system properly bled? Who knows.

I also know of one member on another forum who kept chasing an overheating problem until he changed, of all things, his serpentine belt, it was slipping and his water pump wasnt running at full capacity.
 
LittleHoov said:
Just thought Id add, the Intrigue doesnt actually have a radiator cap, its a sealed system. The only cap it has is the one for the overflow tank. I would assume thats how the system is filled.

Something to consider now is air in the lines, was the system properly bled? Who knows.

I also know of one member on another forum who kept chasing an overheating problem until he changed, of all things, his serpentine belt, it was slipping and his water pump wasnt running at full capacity.
Click to expand...

I read something like this also, I think it was over at CT, the guys AC compresser was draging but had not failed yet. What he noticed was the belt began to slowly come apart. He replaced the compressor and that was the fix. My guess is you could remove the belt and spin the clutch on the AC, but I dont know what you could do to turn the compressor shaft. Any ideas?

first post: http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/167435/

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/169370/
 
Last edited:
mike529 said:
When I began noticing the temp gauge problem 5 days ago. It seemed that when I was driving steady, the gauge stayed around the 1/2 point but when moving slowly or idling i would watch it get hotter and hotter until i started driving faster again, then it would cool back to 1/2.
As of the past few days the gauge seems to move up and down more frquently irregardless of speed or idle unless I really drive it hard, then it does seem to bring the gauge back down.
Click to expand...

Mike have you checked and made sure the cooling fans are working? sounds like there not working!
 
I went back to Firestone today. They said the first thermostat was bad and replaced it. That didn't fix the problem. They spent hours trying to figure the problem out. They checked for head gasket or a cracked block and said they were ok. Fan was running fine. Eventually it came down to either air pockets in the line or they thought the radiator might have some blockage. They flushed the system again. I even saw a mechanic with a stethoscope!

They stayed 40 minutes past close working on it to their credit. It now runs slightly below 1/2 and occasionaly climbs to between 1/2 and 3/4. I'm going to drive it for a day and see what happens. Might try some GM dealers. Maybe they have dealt with this before. I can still hear the gurgling noise when i come to a stop and turn off the heater.

Mike
 
I drove the car to work today(14miles) city streets and after work did some xmas shopping and took it on the highway on the way home. One time going to and from work the gauge rose above 1/2 by a click or 2. Otherwise it ran a bit below 1/2 the rest of the time.

At least it's driveable now, though I won't feel comfortable for at least a month or so that it's fixed. Only time will tell.

Regardless of my situation, is it normal for a temp gauge to fluctuate somewhat during normal driving? Also, do all cars temp gauge sit around the same reading? I mean should they all be around half or less? Mechanic the other day told me it varies from car to car.

Mike
 
mike529 said:
I drove the car to work today(14miles) city streets and after work did some xmas shopping and took it on the highway on the way home. One time going to and from work the gauge rose above 1/2 by a click or 2. Otherwise it ran a bit below 1/2 the rest of the time.

At least it's driveable now, though I won't feel comfortable for at least a month or so that it's fixed. Only time will tell.

Regardless of my situation, is it normal for a temp gauge to fluctuate somewhat during normal driving? Also, do all cars temp gauge sit around the same reading? I mean should they all be around half or less? Mechanic the other day told me it varies from car to car.

Mike
Click to expand...

I can see my needle move alittle around town, usually sits a bit to the right of center. thats about 225 degrees, on hills it goes up alot faster, with passengers faster than that.

I really dont know about other car gauges but would think they would be the same.

Im going to do a test over the weekend to see what happens when I disconnect the AC compressor plug, but turn on the AC. Of course there wont be any ac but the fan will work. I want to see when it works.

I see that you said your gauge came down abit. Do you think Firestone put in a lower degree t-stat?

Keep us informed!
Denny
 
Just an off color question...

when they did the Flush, did they make absolutely sure that the Overflow system was functioning as it should and was not clogged in any manner?

I have seen these systems actually clog the Bleed lines... Gotta love Dex Cool...

Whne these lines clog and allow for nothing to bypass the pretty well closed system will not bleed... You will have air pockets in the system if this happens as the Heads of your cas physically sit higher than the radiator...

I have in the past spent hours cleaning out that type of overflow for overhearting issues...

Good luck... and what ever you do... DO NOT let that aluminum Head 3.5 get to the red..... You'll be buying head gaskets and head work in short order..
 
Ok fellas, bringing an old thread back from a few years ago.

Did you determine what the actual cause of the problem was? My kids intrigue is having the exact same problems:

  • fluctuating temperature
  • can get it to cool down if accelerate quickly
  • coolant overflow has proper amount of coolant
  • fans work

There just isn't any rhyme or reason as to why the temp will go up. I am curious though as to why I can get the temp to come down when accelerating. That has to be some sort of clue to the problem...?

HELP!
 
it probably is a circulation issue, has the water pump ever been replaced? Is the serpentine belt NOT slipping or is there a drag on it from another driven part like the ac or a idler pulley, tensioner or power steering pump? Has the thermostat ever been replaced? Hooking up a good scanner that sees what the temperature sensor is reporting back to the ECU (reads live PID's) can tell you a lot, analogue gauges are not very accurate especially after years of use. As long as it is NOT a head gasket issue, it should be reasonably easy to eliminate those items, and don't discount the possibility that the surge tank cap is not sealing-does the top hose have good pressure when the engine is hot? That has to be the case, then go from there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top