I have a '92 Olds 88 Royale that won't crank and the security light is blinking on the dash board. Replaced fuel pump recently. Is there a reset button or switch some where that needs to be pushed. Called up dealership, all they said was "Bring it in, we'll fix it... for $300". Anyone got a suggestion? Oh yea, if I leave the battery hooked up it goes dead over night. Please help, I have to travel in a week, if I can't figure it out, I'm up that famous creek without paddle! :blink:
won't crank, security light blinking
- Thread starter steelwilk
- Start date
I have a '92 Olds 88 Royale that won't crank and the security light is blinking on the dash board. Replaced fuel pump recently. Is there a reset button or switch some where that needs to be pushed. Called up dealership, all they said was "Bring it in, we'll fix it... for $300". Anyone got a suggestion? Oh yea, if I leave the battery hooked up it goes dead over night. Please help, I have to travel in a week, if I can't figure it out, I'm up that famous creek without paddle! :blink:Jrs3800
New member
Not 100% sure here... But there is a possibility that the wires that have to do with the ignition switch have broken... They may need to tear into the steering collum to have the problem repaired.. All I can tell you to do is talk to them to see whats involved in correcting the problem...If they have to rip into the steering collum and replace the parts than it may be worth the $300 bill... Just a thought.. Good Luck.. Let us know what happens..
This is easy enough to check. Odds are its the key or the Ignition cylinder
Measure the resistance of your key's chip (yes its only a reisitor, nothing fancy). If you have no resistance then you need a new key.
Now on top of the steering wheel column, above the brake pedal you see two wires running together, typically both yellow or both orange, going to a connector. Disconnect and with key in run (no need to start) measure the resistance at the end of the wires, it should be the same as when you measured the key. If its not then the problem is wiring or ingnition cylinder.
Yuo can also bypass this system by cutting the wires and soldering a resistor (+/-3%) of equivalent value to the connector end of the wires, not the ign cylinder end. Now any key that will turn the cylkinder will work as the computer will always see the correct resistance. Spare keys cost $1 instead of $45.. yippee!
Measure the resistance of your key's chip (yes its only a reisitor, nothing fancy). If you have no resistance then you need a new key.
Now on top of the steering wheel column, above the brake pedal you see two wires running together, typically both yellow or both orange, going to a connector. Disconnect and with key in run (no need to start) measure the resistance at the end of the wires, it should be the same as when you measured the key. If its not then the problem is wiring or ingnition cylinder.
Yuo can also bypass this system by cutting the wires and soldering a resistor (+/-3%) of equivalent value to the connector end of the wires, not the ign cylinder end. Now any key that will turn the cylkinder will work as the computer will always see the correct resistance. Spare keys cost $1 instead of $45.. yippee!
ps , once you trigger the security light, you have to take the key out for 5 minutes before it will 'reset' and let you try again.
resitance values for the key should be (+/-5% not 3 as previously stated) on of:
392, 523, 681, 887, 1130, 1470, 1870, 2370, 3010, 3740, 4750, 6040, 7500, 9530, 11800
And those two wires may also be white or white and purple...
resitance values for the key should be (+/-5% not 3 as previously stated) on of:
392, 523, 681, 887, 1130, 1470, 1870, 2370, 3010, 3740, 4750, 6040, 7500, 9530, 11800
And those two wires may also be white or white and purple...