procedure for getting air out of 2000 intrigue cooling system

MIKE.B

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I have changed the thermostat and coolant in my 2000 intrigue and am gettin an overheating problem which i have seen listed on other threads.

what is the procedure to remove the air from the closed system on the intrigue i know there is a bleed valve on the radiator which we have bled numerious times already with not much luck thanks
 

bertiespeed

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bertiespeed

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I have changed the thermostat and coolant in my 2000 intrigue and am gettin an overheating problem which i have seen listed on other threads.

what is the procedure to remove the air from the closed system on the intrigue i know there is a bleed valve on the radiator which we have bled numerious times already with not much luck thanks

Well i cant post links so check this out . Apperently the water pump and thermostst must be replaced with GM oem parts because of thr design of the reverse flow cooling system

check out this bulletin dated 01/16/2001
Higher than Normal Temp Gauge Reading/Overheat in Cold Weather #01-06-02-001
Higher Than Normal Temperature Gauge Reading or Overheat Condition in Cold Weather (Install Enhanced Thermostat)
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue

with 3.5 L Engine (VIN H -- RPO LX5)

Condition
Some customers may comment that their vehicle displays a higher than normal temperature gauge reading or may overheat in cold weather. This will generally occur while idling or driving slowly in traffic during colder weather, usually less than 0°C (32°F), with the heater control set to maximum heat and fan speed. If all published diagnosis from the appropriate applicable service manual has been performed without success then an enhanced thermostat may need to be installed.

Cause
The engine thermostat may not provide adequate coolant flow.

Correction
Perform all published diagnostics from the appropriate Service Manual and any repairs that may be indicated. If these have been performed without success, then an enhanced thermostat should be installed. A thermostat with improved coolant flow has been developed for the 3.5 L engine applications listed above. For complete detailed instructions on the proper installation of this thermostat, refer to the appropriate applicable GM Service Manual.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

12570247
Thermostat - 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with VIN H, RPO LX5


12570248
Thermostat - 1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with VIN H, RPO LX5



Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

J3500
Thermostat, Outlet and/or Gasket Replace
Use Published Labor Time

And this for flushing and getting air out

yes we fixed the water pump. You must use OEM water pump and OEM thermostat. I had originally purchased a water pump and thermostat from auto zone. After 4days and lots of coolant and money, I purchased the OEM parts and followed the following directions we found online from another man that had the same problem. I am a mechanic and I could not believe this was the process for changing a water pump. There is only one bleed air value and it is in the top left corner of the radiator on my car. Also the reservoir for the extra coolant is part of the pressurized system so if there is any kind of leak or like ours the cap was coming apart in 2 pieces you need a new one of those too. After we fixed the car we were still noticing a spike in temp. and ever now and then there was coolant on the garage floor. It was coming from the reserve coolant tank, replace OEM tank and refilled the entire system AGAIN and we have had no problems since.
Refill directions are below
Good luck.

CF Newbie

Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1

Vehicle Profile:
Year: 2001
Make: Oldsmobile
Model: INTRIGUE

Intrigue overheating problem solved!!

A little background: I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue with a 3.5 engine the water pump started to leak so I change it ,flushed the coolant system added new coolant and thats when the problem of overheating started.Prior to the new water pump there was no problem. I have the GM service manual so I followed the instructions to add coolant exactly and all the burping procedures this did not solve the overheating problem. Based on previous posts I did not want to start changing the thermotate,radiator etc,etc because they did not solve the problem, I suspected an air bubble so I decided to monitor the situation for a while and continually checking the bleed valve, after one month of driving I found the following:
1: The engine did not heat up as long as the revs were 2,000 rpm plus
2: When the temperature did get near the red line simply stopping the car and reving the engine dropped the needle to the midrange instantly
3: I found that driving at rpm's below 2,000 caused the overheat spike and when the revs went up the temperature gage came down, infact I could drive the car without overheating by shifting gears on the automatic transmission thereby keeping the revs up, THIS CONVINCED ME IT MUST BE AN AIR BUBBLE IN THE SYSTEM.
THE FIX:
I started from square one again which a few changes to the filling procedure:
1: drained the coolant you will get approximately 5 litres out of the pee cock(don't forget to open the rad bleed valve)
2:disconnect the top rad hose from the engine.
3:I cut the top heater hose(near the fire wall) and installed a "y" flushing adapter inline
4:I also connected a drain hose to the engine outlet (where I disconnected the top rad hose) I did this so as to not make a mess.
5:I connected a garden hose to the "y" flushing adapter I also used a ball cock valve to control the water flow.
6:I kept the cap on the surge tank.
7:turn on the water and watch the surge tank the water will start to rise you will be able to contol the level by regulating the flow from the hose. Regulate the flow so the water in the surge tank is about 3/4 full and just let the hose run keeping an eye on it so it does not over flow. Now turn your attention to the engine outflow.
8:You will probably see the water coming out in spurts or bubbles WHEN IT COMES OUT IN A CONTINEUS FLOW ALL THE AIRS OUT, you need the hose pressure toget the air out the water pump just cannot do it! Thats why this is such a common problem for the DIY guy.
9:also run the water until it is clean so as to get the right coolant mixture.
FILLING:
10: you will need to get 4.75 litres of anti freeze in the system for 50/50 mixture which can be a challenge.
11:shut the water off but do not disconnect, with the rad bleed open and the rad peecock closed add coolant thru top rad hose until it comes out of the bleed valve, you will probably get about 3 1/4 liters in the rad. close the bleed valve(I made a tool to open and close the bleeder. I ground 4 driving slots in a socket so I could use a ratchet wrench )
12: I added the balance of the antifreeze to the surge tank NOTE!!! the top rad hose is not connected to the engine so as you added antifreeze it will push out water this is what you want you need to add about 1 1/2 litre this way, you are adding a total of 4.75 litres of antifreeze to the system. CONNECT THE TOP RAD HOSE. the level in the surge tank will be below the cold level proceed as follows:
13:The garden hose should still be connected to the "y" flush adapter slowly add water to the system and watch the surge tank level when the fluid level reaches the cold level shut the water off and disconnect the hose. Seal the "y" adapter with the plug that comes with it:
14:ALL DONE run the engine a few cycles to mix the coolant and drive, drive ,drive,problem free.
 

billcarson

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this problem can also be rectified by removing the themostat and running a little on the cool side.ok for warmer climates and has worked in the ny area for me so far.i also installed a purge valve on the heater hose to assist in the venting.some may disagree with this but it has worked for me and i will never put it back in.
 

Michael David Dean

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If you are searching here as you still have an Intrigue and wish to resolve the cooling issue, I found out what worked for me. I followed the fourteen point procedure up above. Seemed to me like a couple of steps for when to reattach hoses were incomplete. Anyway, I topped off the tank and filled the heater core hose and capped it and took it for a drive following a course of hills through a local partk that I had done five time before that would cause the overheating at a predictable time. It overheated again.... I went home quite dejected and started surveying. I loosened the cap on the "y" connector and started to get air bubbles and some fluid too w/o removing cap completely. High point in the system now it seems. Has not overheated since. I felt like I should have done this first thing, installed the "y" connector to allow air out w/o the big production of using a hose, flushing water as detailed above as when the engine was overheating these heater core lines would start thumping with air/ hot water boiling.
 
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