Part number(s) for A/C Bracket 1984 307V8 vin Y olds 98

Studeolds

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It seams that most parts suppliers want the part number for the bracket I am trying to get my hands on. I have a chassis manual and the electrical manual but no parts catalog. If someone on the forum could look up the part numbers for the bracket parts needed for the R-4 compressor on the 1984 307V8 w/o air pump I'd appreciate it. The drawings in the chassis book indicates a front and rear bracket with spacers, bolts, etc.
Thank you,
Charlie D.
 

307-5a

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It seems like lots of owners are deleting AC from their cars , there are lots of pictures of 307 engines on forums that have had the A/C pump removed , but we can see the remaining AC box on firewall , so there must be lots of AC pump brackets not being used ? or were tossed out ? if you cannot find one send me an email or PM
 

Studeolds

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It seems like lots of owners are deleting AC from their cars , there are lots of pictures of 307 engines on forums that have had the A/C pump removed , but we can see the remaining AC box on firewall , so there must be lots of AC pump brackets not being used ? or were tossed out ? if you cannot find one send me an email or PM
I can not figure out how to do a PM on this forum and I do not know your email address. My email = cdmusgrove@atlasok.com. I would appreciate your emailing me because I have tried pretty hard to find one and have not been successful.
Thank you,
Charlie D.
 

Studeolds

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I am no longer looking for an OE AC bracket. This past weekend at a car show it was recommended I go with a Sanden 508 compressor which normally accompany the Vintage AC systems. I took a chance and ordered the Vintage Air bracket 141008 which is advertised for the older Oldsmobile engines. The bolt holes on the 307 head is the same location as the older 350s, etc. I bought a clone Sanden 508 made in China from a friend and got the bracket in this evening. It fit and the compressor fit. The instructions say the bracket kit "requires 3-groove crank and water pump pulley" My engine had a 2-grove crank pulley and a 3-grove water pump pulley. The outside pulley on the water pump is what will have to turn the AC compressor. It does not go to the crank pulley and I hope the outside water pump pulley will turn the AC compressor. Another concern I had was if the bracket would work with the mechanical fuel pump. It will. I am a happy camper.
 

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307-5a

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Thanks for the follow up / it helps others work out projects / how to !
Wow ! thats lot of work to have A / C ! most would just put the windows down ! and i would paint the roof white . my 307 also has a 2 belt crank pulley and 3 belt water pump pulley . my 307 the most inner crank pulley is the AC belt , the middle crank pulley is power steering pump belt and most outer pulley is alternator . Notice in your new member intro i suggest a sanden pump , but now looking at it on your engine i am not sure . it is a big pump ! it sticks out to far to run on the most inner belt , can the pump be moved back far enough to run on the most inner belt ? I do not see how this will work well . belt slippage / belt squeal . and maybe premature wear on water pump bearings . Even if your Sanden ac pump belt lines up to run on the outer water pump pulley , does that not mean the other two belts will not line up well ? you might have to look at a serpentine belt conversion / one belt to drive everything to use that sanden pump . Pictures below / is my 307 / white tape is the alternator belt.
 

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Studeolds

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Houston, I have a problem!! Roy, thank you for your reply. You keep pointing out things I should be aware of and it helps me with what I am trying to do. I looked back at some pictures I have taken during the project and as you say, the the outer water pump (no crank pulley) is the alternator belt. The middle water pump (outer crank pulley) is the power steering belt. Once again, as you say, the inner crank and water pump pulley is supposed to run the AC compressor. My off-hand observation is that I will have to fabricate a bracket to get the bracket I bought set back 1.3 inches so that the Sanden AC compressor will run off the inner pulley grooves. There is quite a bit of room between the right inner-fender and the engine so I think I have enough wiggle room to make it work. I think it will basically put the AC compressor in about the same location on the right side of the engine as the alternator is on the left side. Roy, thank you for this catch!!
Charlie D.
 

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307-5a

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Post a pic of the car this engine is in , is it the all Red color car in your intro ? i have had an all Red colored car , it was very hot inside , unreal / could Red color be worse than black ? i would paint the roof or two tone ! that AC pump will run even more trying to cool a red car , and you will need a lot of cooling out front to remove all that heat .
 

Studeolds

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My wife desires the car to be salmon pink with a white top. I used TCP's Restoration Shop Acrylic Urethane on my '55 sedan. I called them up and a representative suggested using a 1955 International Salmon Pink. I researched salmon pink and found its complimentary color to be a medium blue. I decided the engine will be painted a Pontiac Light Blue. I sprayed the valve covers with a rattle can but have ordered a quart of the that color from Eastwood. I see your engine is blue. I am assuming maybe the GM blue? I have painted one part with the salmon pink. Almost all the panels have been prepared for final paint. I am using a white epoxy primer from SPI.
Charlie D.
 

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307-5a

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Seeing that you are putting a lot of work into having A / C , you might find this interesting , attached pic is a vacuum controlled valve , mounted on intake , passenger side . when A/C is on the MAX setting it closes off water flow to heater hose , so stops hot water flow to heater core . your intake has the heater hose fitting but might of had this valve . and notice pictures that others post of their engines with A/C removed this valve is still in place . You would get a cooler cabin with a shut off valve . and for others with no A/C a shut off valve would help keep cabin cooler in hot weather .
 

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Studeolds

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This is such a timely post. Last month I dove my '55 Studebaker sedan to an orphan car show in Branson, MO. A good friend of mine let me take lots of pictures of his after market AC/Heater unit installed in his older Studebaker Pickup. I liked the clean look of his hoses. He pointed out a manual cutoff valve in the heater hose which is shut during the summer months and makes sure that the hot water does not enter the cab space. Thank you for pointing out the vacuum controlled valve but my plan is to get rid of as many vacuum hoses and connections as I can. My current project is scanning the posts on the ClassicOldsmobile site under the "small block" section. I went back to the last page (#135) and scanning the threads dealing with the 1980-1984 computer controlled 307 V8. I am on page 92 and have learned quite a bit about getting rid of the ECM, smog control systems, etc. to simplify my drive train.
 

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307-5a

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Nice , even has it on a push/ pull cable . I think a manual heater hose shut off valve could be even simpler than that. As i would think close it in hot weather and open it in the fall ! would be easy to just lift hood to open and close the shut off valve . Thats what i am thinking of doing with my car , even when mine works! it would help cool cabin with out turning on A/C .
 
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