alero trans shift problems

jdszbueoy

New member
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
41
hi yall. i am a happy owner of a 2000 alero with 80000 miles on the clock. no problems until now. it is the tranny( i think), what it does is if your driving down the road say 65mph and you want to pass someone you step down to down shift, the rpm go up abit and it surges backand forth. you see it on the tach and can feel it. also if you are going slower and it downshifts from 3rd to 2nd it does same thing. now for the kicker, while it does this if you manually shift it into the gear you want it stops surging and act normal....local dealer looked at it and of course found nothing. i even took tech for a joy ride to show him the problems. his reaction was "dont show diagnostic codes,cant fix"....nice huh? i dont know if i need to reflash the ecm or if i have a internal solinoid prob. or what? i have added trans-x additive and replaced my tranny filter and fluid. no change. im hoping someone out there has unfortunatly had this same problem and may have a solution. any info would be great,thanks

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


just in case anyone out there dont know yet, to check your fluid level of your 4t45e tranny(withno dipstick), there is a plug on the side of tranny youtake out if fluid trickles out level is good.
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
I know exactly what you are describing and often my 2000 Alero GL V6 (now with almost 69,000mi.) does the exact same thing. I've experienced it since about 56,000mi. after purchasing used at roughly 52,000mi.

I tried adding cheap fuel injector cleaner and it has helped a little, doesn't do it as often and when it does it only surges a few times then grabs the next gear down. I've also found that if you lay on the throttle a little more, it will shift down and grab the gear. I found that the cheap $0.88 stuff worked better for me than the more expensive name brand advertised as being made with Jet Fuel. Wally-World's automotive dept. is where I got the cheap stuff.

Good Luck,

joc1394

P.S. - if you ever do figure out the real cause of the problem, please post back!
 
O

oscar2

Guest
Same problem

I too have the same problem, and you're right about the techs., they have been no help. I have already changed all of the easy parts, I've also had the transaxle rebuilt (which I believe may have been caused by this surging problem), some times the problem is worse than others so I really can't figure it out. I hope somebody responds with a solution! I'm getting tired of guessing!
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
Don't know if you tried but I would check out the "kick-down" cable, I had a friend with a lot older vehicle and he had something similar to this problem. Just a suggestion.
 

jdszbueoy

New member
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
41
keep in mind this is a electronic transmission generally controled by the powertrain module. also the symtoms seem to be affected by the temp of the trans. it seems to shift nice when you first start it up and for first few miles., as the temp get to norm operating range it seems to shift worse..... and for the responce from the person who had same problems, do you recall unhooking your battery shortly before the problems have started? i have not tested my possible theory yet,but keep in mind that the powertrain module(ecm) is a flashable unit. meaning instead of the computers going bad they can be reprogramed or reformated like a pc. most newer gm vehichle all have same computer but are programed diff. I want to reflash mine some time to see if it changes. but lack of $ keeps me doing this. if anyone wants to try this they can go to you local auto parts store and usually have the do this generally in the bigger cities. example: OREILLY AUTO PARTS(low price guarentee leaders), i just happen to run one.---anyway if they are available in your area the reflash generally runs about $35 let me know if this helps.
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
The exact thing happened to me. 2000 Alero, 80,000 miles and had it to the dealer twice. Nope nothing wrong. Um, yea there is. Second gear slips. This is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. There's obviously a problem, don't tell me there isn't. Anyone had any luck in fixing this without replacing or rebuilding the tranny?
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
I love this car - don't like the 4T45E...

jdszbueoy said:
and for the response from the person who had same problems, do you recall unhooking your battery shortly before the problems have started?
Well, we bought it used, had 54,000 miles on it when we bought in 2004. I don't remember this condition happening when we bought it. However, after a month or two, I did start to notice it. During that time, the local dealer we bought it from replaced the steering wheel mounted controls for the cruise control system. Since he had to work within the steering wheel and around the Air Bag, I imagine that he disconnected the battery in the process of fixing that (as well as any number of the other little problems we had with it in the first few months, fortunately nothing big). The car is now passed 70,250miles, I would've thought it would have learned how to shift by now...20,000 some miles later. I'm not quite sure how reprogramming the PCM would help, but I'd love to know more about your theory. It still does this and I'd love to get it solved. Also, once up to operating temperature and under semi-hard acceleration, first gear slips a bit, but none of the other shift points do. Could this be another clue?

Thanks for your help!

joc1394
 

oscar2

New member
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
EGR Valve?

Has anyone tried replacing the EGR valve? I've tried numerous other parts with no success. I was thinking of trying the EGR valve next, but for $100, I thought maybe someone else would have some input?
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
Shift Problems & EGR Valve

No, I haven't tried the EGR valve yet. I found a page about testing EGR http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm but haven't had a chance to go find out what kinda valve the 3400 V6 has (I think the 2.4L 4 has the same one). I'm a college student so money to replace these kinda things is hard to come by. Also, would a problem with the EGR trigger a trouble code? I haven't had a trouble code over the past 20,000 miles (except for a loose gas cap/bad gas cap seal one time, gave me a little grief).

I've read on another forum that it could possibly be a problem with the torque converter. This isn't cheap either and I'm not entirely sure how they work. A friend has told me that the torque converters die on almost every american car and that its just a fact of life. Any suggestions or comments on this one?

Thanks for the suggestions and responses...

joc1394
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
Oops

That was my post that posted as an unregistered user...Somehow my computer logged out of the forum while I was typing my last response...

joc1394
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
Update

My 3400 v6 appears to have an electronic/solenoid controled EGR valve and it appears to be working just fine. Once again, Fuel Injector Cleaner helped for a tank or two (didn't eliminate the problem on those tanks, just reduced the number of occurrences and duration of the shift problem). Also, first gear is slipping a little more now after warm up. The in between shift problem was driving me nuts on the interstate the other day (driving in the hills of western PA) and I just kicked it down and ran it in 3rd for a few miles of rough hills. Of course my gas mileage suffered (3k-3.5k RPMS to do 68MPH) but at least I wasn't being jerked around in my seat.

Any luck with the ECM re-flash idea?

joc1394
 

DugwayCokie

New member
Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
My son came home the other day and said his Alero was jerking. It was like when he shifted. Or when it was suppose to shift. I am quite sure this is what his problem might be. If he takes it to Tunex, they won't see anything wrong will they?
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
Hmmm - maybe this works...

Ok, I tried disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes on a cold day to try to fix an unrelated problem/code the other day. Of course, it was off long enough to seemingly reset the PCM. Ever since, though the transmission has been re-learning my driving style, it has not had the problem. I'm holding my breath because I can't believe that may have fixed it, but i'm hoping that it did.

Have a great new year everyone!

joc1394
 

Jrs3800

New member
Joined
May 13, 2004
Messages
132
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
41
Location
Spacecoast Florida
I think most if not all of you have the smaller brother trans of the 4T65-E...

So you all should have the 4T45-E...

These transmissions are very highly controles by the PCM... In almost every aspect... The Tech 2 scantool they use will be able to see the slip in the TCC as well while you are driving and the apply rate of the TCC solenoid... If you are at 60+ crusin the TCC solenoid should be at 100% apply and the TCC slip should be at a minimum say 0-15,20 rpms...

I have always hates the way the 45 and 65 E transmissions acted... They are actually designed for the TCC to be applied at lower speeds to increase fuel effiency, meaning that the TCC friction material is supposed to be designed to handle heat better as the clutch is supposed to slip to a certain degree depending on the roadspeed at which the clutch is applied...

After driving the THM440-T4( 4T60 ), 4T60-E's.. THM125's( 3T40 ) and the 4T40-E as well as the 4T45-E and 4T65-E... I have never disliked a GM trans as much as the 45 and 65 series...

On the 65-E's we have seen 4th gear spline failure or Converter failures which takes out the rest of the trans...

Ok enough of my babble...


Some of you guys need to call around to dealerships other than the ones you have dealt with and see if there is an updated program to take care of some of the trans driveability issues that you are having... There may actually be an updated program for you... and if they say there are no caodes we can't help you... Then they are a sorry bunch, especially when you showed him what it was doing as plain as day... * Shakes Head *
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
Dare I speak too soon?

Its going on a week and a half...All previous attempts at fixing the tranny failed after a few days of re-learning my driving patterns. <KNOCKING ON REAL WOOD RIGHT NOW>

Thus begins my long post (apologies in advance for my wordiness):

Three weeks ago, I was driving on the interstate doing between 65-70MPH when the car started to shudder, almost as if on an old tar-and-chipped back road here in PA. But then it went away, only to rear its ugly head again a few more miles down the road. At this point, i'm heading into Downtown Pittsburgh with the car shaking like mad and my foot on the floor desperately trying to keep the car going faster than 45MPH. Oh, and did I mention the check engine light had winked at me the night before (this has become so common place I now think nothing of it and promise to check it out in the coming week). So I pulled onto the birm and popped the hood. Something smelled extremely hot and a bit sulfurous but didn't feel any warmer than it normally does and the temperature gauge confirmed that the engine was normal temperature wise. It was also in the teens and twenties on this early february morning. So I shut the car off and we sat for a few minutes. Then I started it back up, ignored the irregular, unsteady idle, and pulled it back onto the interstate and forced it to our destination a few miles away poking along at speeds between 30 and 50MPH with my foot on the floor. I was MAD. A friend said to check the plug wires and to get the fuel filter checked/changed ASAP. But there was little I could do on a Saturday in the middle of Pittsburgh and 40 some miles from home. Later in the day when I went to go home, the car started, idled, and drove like normal, as if nothing had happend. So I made it back home...with the SES light glaring at me the whole time, and with only one hiccup as I got off the interstate a mile or so from home.

I took it back to the dealer I bought it from and had them read the code (they grab the code reader when they see me pull in now). This time it was Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Upstream O2 Sensor. I'd had the Upstream Oxygen Code before, but it went away after I replaced the thermostat. But the dealer indicated he suspected the MAF sensor was more at fault than the O2 sensor. So I left. I do my own work on this car, and they understand (this isn't a GM dealer, its a local mechanic/dealer by the way). I tried once more to wish the problem away, as it hadn't done it since that day, but then it did it again the next time I took the interstate so I knew I had a problem on my hands. Thus, I took a friends advice to try "cleaning it".

Yes, clean the MAF sensor - First: Remove it from the intake between the throttle body and the airbox. Next, spray it with "Throttle Body Cleaner" from the local Auto Parts store. Then spray it with Brake Cleaner - which will remove any residue the Throttle Body Cleaner may have left. Then spray it dry with compressed air and reinstall it into the car. So far its worked quite well, and cheaper than replacing that expensive sensor.

One last important note. This not only appears to have solved my interstate issues with this car, but all my transmission problems have mysteriously disappeared as well. It shifts quick and concise, stays in gear with no slip like before. Moderate acceleration in overdrive no longer causes it to go nuts, it just downshifts quick and smooth. I just wish I'd discovered this sooner. Anyhow - with a few others reporting similar problems, I wanted to post this quick, easy and cheap fix to try. I hope this works for the rest of you!

Once again, my apologies to those who read this post, but I hope it helps!

Good Luck,

joc1394
 

Jrs3800

New member
Joined
May 13, 2004
Messages
132
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
41
Location
Spacecoast Florida
Yes in some circumstances that may actually help... These cars are very touchy..

A little more on the trans... If the trans gets too hot the PCM in these cars will degreade performance to keep the trans from cooking... I have heard that there was not much for issues regaurding the trans overheating... Funny as that comes from performance shops that sell 4T45 E-s... They still get very hot... 200F+ is a bit too warm in my eyes for the trans fluid... 230F+ is horrible, and at 260+ The PCM will seriously limit you to keep your trans from turing into a smoldering pile of 4T45-E parts... The 65-E's are controled in the same manner...

I have a 4T60-E and in my case I was doing 230F in town( summer time )... This was too hot for my comfort to have the trans hotter than the engine at 180F... I added a trans cooler and 160-180F is now the operating range... Heat is the single largest enemy of any transmission...

Great info Guys:)
 

joc1394

New member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Messages
43
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Bessemer, Pennsylvania
Back Again

Ok, 6 months of sweet bliss...No problems WHATSOEVER since I cleaned the mass air. I think that is a record for the longest period of time between repairs in the 2-3 years of ownership. Well, that is until last week. Once again the sensor began to act up, with a serious jerk of the car while doing 55mph as the A/C Compressor kicked back on...scared the living daylights out of me. I've cleaned it again, but its taking longer and longer to start. If I don't get rid of it soon, I will most likely have to finally go buy one :( . Parents just bought an '03 Camry (don't go off about it being an import - it's made in Kentucky!) but I just miss the sporty ride of the Alero (Mine does supposedly have the sport suspension package). Anyhow, just wanted to update. My transmission problems are gone until recently here. Hope this works just as well for everyone else that has had the transmission problem!


-joc1394
 

weiser

New member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
0
pinch a penny

thanks for the great advice about cleaning the maf sensor.. i used carb cleaner and once after, blew it out with dry nitrogen @ 400 PSI. reinstalled the sensor and took the car for a test drive, car ran like it just came off the lot, the shifting and acceleration problem was almost 100% cleared up.
Just a few minor hesitations at low speeds. maybe another once over and the problem should be gone....
 

weiser

New member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Points
0
penny spent

after trying to clean it up, found most problems were gone but still hesitant from the get-go. talked to my mechanic about it and sure enough he had one sittin out back, used of course. but took the two minutes to replace it and tested it now for 3 days and the car runs like a top again. Hope i can see some better gas mileage.:rolleyes:
 
G

G-780367

Guest
EGR Valve?

Has anyone tried replacing the EGR valve? I've tried numerous other parts with no success. I was thinking of trying the EGR valve next, but for $100, I thought maybe someone else would have some input?
Yes I replaced the EGR valve on my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero and it did not make a difference
 
Top