1990 88 royale brougham hesitates to accelerate, dies while driving

Is this car worth keeping?

  • Yes

    Votes: 3 100.0%

  • No

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Absolutely

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Junk it

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    3
  • Poll closed .
O

OldBetty

New member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Long beach
Been having issues while driving. Hesitates/lacks when I try to accelerate, will die when I perform a 3 point turn, idles rough goes high then low. It has just shut off when I was driving also. Kinda scary. Love this car 1990 88 royale brougham 3800 V6. has only 70,000 miles on it. Bought it off a grandma with only 33,000 miles! :D don't want to get rid of this beast.

What I've done to fix on my own; changed Mass Airflow Sensor, changed spark plugs, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, coolant and a bottle of Seafoam. Thought it would be the MAF sensor? But wasn't. Thought it would be the spark plugs which needed changing they were old.

Have read on this forum and others that it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor, camshaft sensor, fuel pump relay, fuel pressure regulator. I'm going to check the relay center below the glove box tonight.

Let me know, Oldsmobile world!
Want to do this on my own, anything helps.
 
it sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

It *could* be the fuel pressure regulator as I understand they are prone to misbehavior.

Check that your intake duct between the air filter housing and the throttle body is in good condition, make sure all your vacuum lines/hoses are in good condition, and make sure the PCV valve is secure (PCV valve is located down behind the intake plenum just behind the alternator area--it's hard to see)

You may even have a leaking intake manifold gasket, which could cause vacuum leakage too.
 
I second checking ALL vacuum lines - including the ones to the carbon cannister and the evaporator purge valve / sensor.

When in doubt, change it out *grins*

RwP
 
Amcnut & RalphP2,

Thanks for your responses. I will check for vacuum leaks. Amcnut, I will check my vacuum hoses and PCV valve. Any recommendations on how to check/test for for vacuum leaks? And where exactly is the intake manifold gasket?

RalphP2, carbon canister is located where?

I sincerely appreciate your responses to my problems that I'm experiencing. I will start doing what you guys suggested Monday 6/17/13. When I get my days off. Thanks again!
Anything else please let me know.
 
Usually you'll hear a hissing/sucking sort of sound and you can trace it down that way.

Failing that, you may be able to find a friendly local shop that can "smoke it" and pump the system full of smoke to determine where any leaks may be. The smoke will escape from any openings in the system.
 
If you're a cigar or cigarillo smoker, and have a nitrile glove of the proper size and a big enough bungee / rubber band, you can fake a smoke tester with lung power.

The carbon canister is normally somewhere under a front fender, or behind the front bumper, but I'm not sure where it is on a 1990 Delta 88 Royale Brougham.

RwP
 
After day 1 of checking for vacuum leaks: I was not able to find a leak in the vacuum lines, intake manifold, or throttle body. I'm going to try the cigar trick today saw it demonstrated on YouTube.

What I did notice was that the problem might be the crankshaft position sensor. The timing wheel I notice was clicking causing the wheel to stop and then start. Which was in sync with the change in idle. (low then rough) Can't believe I did not catch that earlier. Also read that this is a common problem on my modle. 1990 88 royale brougham 3.8 V6. My car's lack of performance is pointing to the CKP sensor.

Bought a new CKP today, but have noticed I might need a special tool to remount the harmonic balance/wheel. I have seen various ways how to install the CKP on YouTube. Thinking about doing it myself.

Any thoughts let me know, aging thanks AMCNUT and RWP.
 
The crank sensor isn't hard to change on this car. The biggest pain in the ass is getting the crankshaft bolt out (I changed one of these a few weeks ago and broke my almost new 1/2" breaker bar on it)
Anyway, once the bolt is loose, the harmonic balancer will pretty much just fall right off and then the crank sensor is right there.
Make sure there aren't any bent tabs on either of the two inner rings of the balancer--any bent tabs will interfere with the crank sensor.
Install the crank sensor loosely on its bracket so that it has some adjustment. Carefully install the balancer, making sure the two inner rings align themselves with the grooves in the crank sensor. You'll lay down under the car and then you can slide the sensor to adjust it so that the crank can turn without the balancer touching the sensor. Then lock the sensor down and put it back together.

With proper tools it's less than an hour to change the crank sensor.
 
While it's off ... Check that balancer well, to make sure it's not separating at the rubber.

Depending on the price, you may want to just go back in with a new one.

RwP
 
So have not done the CKP sensor change out yet. Took it to a shop to diagnose why my cay is pissing out coolant underneath it. As soon as I put some in, it will be empty by the end of the day.

The shop calls and tells me that there is a coolant leak on to the transmission, causing damage. So having the leak fixed for/ close to a Thousand bucks.(was quoted) Not happy, but can't do it my self. Transmission has to be taken out to get to leak. Also the repairman said I need a new serpentine belt, and the stearing fluid is leaking as well. To get thisnall fixed he estimated around $2,200. No way, Jose! I'm just having fix the coolant leak. I will change the belt myself.

I really hope this solves the issue with my cars problems.

Any links or ideasmon how to change the belt?
Thanks
 
Sorry to hear about the further problems.

I'm a little skeptical about the coolant leak causing damage to the transmission. If the coolant is leaking onto the trans, it could be from the intake gasket, which could have been the source of your original inquiry.

Changing the serpentine belt takes about 5 minutes. You simply use a correct-sized wrench to pull back on the belt tensioner, slip the old one off and the new one on (you DID pay attention to the routing when you removed the old one, right?) and release the tension onto the belt. That's it. No magic wands needed.
 
Picked up car from shop. Guy tells me that then freeze plugs were shot, needed to be replaced. But still when I was driving it home it had a lack in acceleration uphill, and died on me when I put it in reverse to perform a 3point turn. What could be making this happen?

So my original problem is still there, lacks in acceleration and dies while driving......??

Appreciate all your thoughts on my situation. Anything else you might suggest could be wrong or I could look into?

Thanks!!
 
Fuel pump, maybe. Works enough to make the car run but is weak and can't supply adequate pressure when demand is placed upon it.
 
I'm starting to think it could be the TCC solenoid. There is a surging that happens when I'm at a red light or stop sign. So much so I need to apply a little bit more pressure on the brake.

There is still the shutting off happening while driving.
I just replaced the O2 sensor and the serpentine belt a few days ago.

I check for codes and all I get is code 12. Which I understand as all is fine. Have heard that the TCC does not send a code to the OBD.

Any suggestions?
 
Based on your description, I'd doubt it's the TCC. You never know, but it doesn't sound like a TCC symptom.
 
I finally got codes! Took negative battery cable off for 20 mins and tested for codes and got 4 codes.

Code 27, 28, 29, 31
Looked them up and found what they mean. Quad driver module (computer) 2nd gear circuit, quad driver module(computer) circuit #2 fault, quad driver module (computer) 4th gear circuit. And cam position sensor.

Any help is appreciated how to tackle this.

I have found the cam position sensor. But do I need to buy a new computer?
 
I would try changing the cam sensor first. It's the cheapest and it's easy. And, it could be the cause of the other codes/symptoms.
Change the cam sensor, disconnect the battery for about 15 minutes and let the codes clear, reconnect and then see how things go.
 
Figure it out ands it running great!

A lil dielectrical grease on the TCC solenoid adaptor and it's running great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top