01 Alero V6 4T45E trans fluid and filter change experience

N8ECH

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Gents:

I spent a couple of hours doing a drain/refill filter change on our daughter's 01 Alero today.

The fact that this model of transmission does not have a dipstick does alter the refill process a bit, but it is not rocket science.
I give a huge thumbs down to the GM bean counter who made this call!

Since I am a fan of Auto Zone, I picked one of their TF-190 gasket/filter kits for $16.99+ tax.

Along with that, I had on hand several quarts of older Quaker State Dexron III that I needed to use up.
It is my understanding that the current GM Dexron VI is backwards compatible, so that is the way to go if you have nothing on hand.
The best deal I could find on that was Valvoline brand at NAPA for ~$6 a quart.

After removing the trans pan slowly, I ended up with a whopping 7 quarts plus 6 ounces having come from the trans.

For a trans that had never been opened with 130K on the clock, the oem fluid was pretty dark. The pan was fairly clean, and the magnet had the usual small amount of very fine aluminum paste on it.

After cleaning the pan well and wiping down the mating surface on the trans bottom, I ALMOST forgot to reinstall the new filter!
I had gotten the pan back on with gasket, but had not tightened any bolts yet.

The filter has a snout on one end of it that seats into a combined metal collar/rubber ring that gets seated into the trans first.
The filter is then pressed up and into the collar until it seats and hangs there.

Once I had corrected that blunder, I installed the pan by tightening the bolts in a circular pattern.
I located a torque spec of 106 INCH pounds for the pan bolts. They recommend that you take three rounds to tighten them ,ie 27, then 53 , and finally 106 INCH pounds.
Please note I have highlighted the term INCH and not foot pounds!

I began filling the trans with the goal of putting at least 5 quarts in before starting the engine to look for leaks.

When looking for leaks after the 5 quarts, I did find two areas with minor seepage. Snugging the nearby bolts seemed to have cured that.

I then added 2 additional quarts and took her for a test drive.
There appeared to be no more seepage.

The idea on fluid replacement is that you measure what came out, and put that much back in.

I hope this helps others who are considering a trans service in hopes of having their trans live a long a trouble free life.

While there are no guarantees that this will make your trans live longer, it is my opinion that roughly $65-$70 for the fluid and filter is chump change against a trans rebuild or replacement in the $2-$3K range.

Don
 
Having been through the trans trouble shoot in the past little while i found this write up, it is cumbersom, but works
1. Warm the car up to running temperature.

2. Park it on a level surface.

3. Leave the car running and set the emergency /parking brake. Also set bricks in front and behind the wheels.

4. Look on the passenger side of the transmission (underneath the car)

5. You will see a 10mm bolt a little bit inward from the right axle on the transmission itself.

6. Have a drain pan ready and pull that bolt.

7. If fluid comes out it is full.

8. If no fluid comes out then add ATF III in the fill port on top of the transmission until the fluid just barely seeps out of that hole you removed the bolt from.

9. This port is on top of the transmission (under the hood) and is usually red or black in color.

10. The transmission is now full and ready to go.

then this for the change


Lift the front of your vehicle up with a floor jack. Use jack stands placed under the lift notch about six inches behind the front wheel well on either side of the vehicle. Lock the jack stands in place by lowering the security bar.


Remove the fluid line that connects the transmission to the radiator by loosening the clamp with an adjustable wrench and then pulling on the line gently. The ATF will be hot, so be careful that you don't burn yourself. The transmission is attached to the dipstick well. Place the open end of this line into an empty container, such as an engine oil drain pan.


Start the engine. The ATF will begin to pump out of the line. Watch the ATF line for the ATF to stop flowing. Turn off the engine as soon as the flow of ATF stops. Reattach the line to the transmission.

Change the Filter

Take off the drain pan. You will have to get under the vehicle to do this. Directly under the transmission, there is a solid plate with bolts all around the edges. Remove the bolts using a 6mm hex socket. Some additional ATF may spill when you do this. Remember that it will be hot. Peel the gasket from the rim of the drain pan.


Clean the bottom of the drain pan with a clean paper towel. If it is really dirty, you may need to pour a little transmission fluid on it to help remove some of the sludge. Using water to clean the pan is a bad idea as water will damage the transmission.


Find the 18mm lock nut on the bottom of the transmission filter. This is located in opening which became visible when you removed the drain pan. Remove the lock nut using 18mm box end socket. Pull the filter down to remove it.


Slide a new filter into the filter port. Tighten the lock nut until it is secure.


Put a new gasket on the drain pan and then position the drain pan on the transmission so you can replace the bolts. Tighten these by hand until all of the bolts are holding the drain pan. Moving in criss cross pattern, tighten the bolts using the 6mm hex socket until they are secure. Keep in mind that over tightening will dent the drain pain.




Pretty good write up, but agree with you in the no dipstick fiasco....
 
When doing this same job, I found this part number at autozone 265-809. It is the transmission pan for a 3.4 V6 but with a drain plug. I replaced mine due to a crack that I got from road debris. $41.99 + tax from Autozone.
 
Nice tips and tutorials guys. :)
When doing this same job, I found this part number at autozone 265-809. It is the transmission pan for a 3.4 V6 but with a drain plug. I replaced mine due to a crack that I got from road debris. $41.99 + tax from Autozone.
I liked this one too. I take it they share the same transmission's?
While we're on this subject, can this transmission be built for better reliability?
BTW, Mine is an Aurora with the 3.5 V6.
-Bruce
 
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Tell me what you think of this.
I put my 01 Alero 3.4L in drive after work the on friday and she knocked hard into gear. First thought was low tranny fluid. Saturday was busy and only did it once more. Sunday comes around and i get time to check the fluid level. Get under the car jacked up level and pull the bolt out of the side of the transmission to check the fluid level ( Again, just to add anger to GM for this...Dumbest thing ever, I am a GM fan always have been, but i mean come on)and it comes pouring out. buy the time I get the bolt back in about a Liter and a Half has come out. I'm thinking, if this is suppose to be a fluid level check then there should be this much fluid above it...(Yes the engine and tranny were hot). Ordered a filter and gasket kit and it came in today.. so tomorrow we are going to try that. My question to you is do you think the filter is clogged up not allowing the fluid to get up to the gears? the engine has got 136K on it, and by the colour of the fluid, it doesnt look like its ever been changed. If its not this, I am stuck? Any other ideas?
 
Wow that is sad. Even my old 1974 Plymouth Valiant (a car little changed from the 1960s design) had a transmission dipstick. That really was lame of GM
 
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Scott:
Let me recommend the AZ filter/gasket kit. I had good luck with that.
You will want to add 7 quarts after you get it buttoned back up.
I am told these trannys are pretty reliable, but after 135K anything is a tossup.

The engine needs to be running BTW when you do the fluid level check. This way, if no fluid comes out, add it slowly until it just trickles out. If fluid comes out you let it drain until it stops, then reinstall the access plug.

Don
 
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