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Oldsmobile Forum: 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue RPM goes to 500, stalls close to work
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  #21  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Time to replace the TPS sensor and clean the throttle body and IAC valve (stalled twice on Saturday).
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  #22  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01OldsIntrigueOwner View Post
Time to replace the TPS sensor and clean the throttle body and IAC valve (stalled twice on Saturday).
When/*how* did it stall??
Fwiw, the TPS isn't even needed. Many people think that it does a lot. It does very little.

I forget, what do you have a scan tool?
Look at TPS in live data. If it works, then it works. :-)

For the TPS and the Crank Sensor and the Cam sensors, those must be bought directly from a GM dealer, or a "Standard Product Group" part from RockAuto.

All other sensors are flaming POS sensors!
I posted a couple of times of my 6+ month "adventure" with my '92 Olds Achieva. I ended up going to my local GM dealer in person, bought a Crank Sensor, and put it in. That was around ~~2000. Since then, that CPS has been working fine, no problems.

Often, the PCM will not show any error/DTC with bad/cheap sensors. I never bothered to look deeply at the code to see why a bad Crank Sensor isn't detected. With dual channels, and inputs from the cam sensors, it should be easy to detect a bad sensor. However, it's well known that GM SUCKS at detecting bad/cheap sensors.

Also, for the MAF, again, it must be GM/Delphi. And, there are a TON of fakes out there. Imho, I'd almost trust a used one from ebay, than any new one. Fwiw, I tried 3 different new MAFs. They were *all* *noticeably worse than my 200K+ miles MAF.
I didn't buy one directly from the dealer. If my MAF was suspect, or giving me problems, that's what I would now do.
Fwiw, my car idles/runs better on mid-grade gasoline. Most people wouldn't notice. But, if my engine skips even once, I notice.

Btw, my well used '92 Olds Achieva Quad 4 engine **only** like 100% OEM spark plugs. They don't even make them any more. Any other spark plug, even the GM replacements, cause a slight skip/vibration. I notice things like that. Btw, I also bought out RockAuto's supply of those no longer made spark plugs. So, I should be all set. :-)

Yea, someone needs to keep Oldsmobiles on the road.


Although, I think this may be the last year for my '92 Olds Achieva. The unibody is getting too much rust. I replaced the rear subframe for the bumper back in the 90's.



Good Luck!
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  #23  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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It stalled when I was coming to a stop, twice. It would go from 1500 RPM, to 500, then drop to 0. Thankfully, I was in the right lane and it would start and run for a second, but, pressing the gas pedal made it start, but it starts fine without issues, and I did get the crank and cam sensors replaced from 2014 to 2017 (5 yr. warranty on said parts when I took it into a small repair shop that purchases genuine ACDelco/Delphi parts).

I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet (will change that when I get a new ACDelco fuel float sensor since the fuel gauge is still erratic).

Also, when the car was off, I opened the hood and pressed the throttle where the cables are at and it did help. Might be carbon buildup or a cheap POS IAC valve I bought 5 years ago at Autozone.

Also, my plan is to patch the exhaust resonator (currently has holes on the side) temporarily until I can afford a new one along with the muffler, however, I cannot find another brand other than Walker.

Last edited by 01OldsIntrigueOwner; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:40 PM.
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  #24  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01OldsIntrigueOwner View Post
It stalled when I was coming to a stop, twice. It would go from 1500 RPM, to 500, then drop to 0.
That does sound like possibly the IAC. Cheap ones fail for many reasons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01OldsIntrigueOwner View Post
Also, my plan is to patch the exhaust resonator (currently has holes on the
side) temporarily until I can afford a new one along with the muffler, however, I cannot find another brand other than Walker.
Walker is the only option. I just replaced my exhaust around December.
Yea, it "kinda" sucks.

But, even around 2000, for my '94 Achieva with "dual exhaust" on the quad-4 4-cyl DOHC, no one made the single to dual exhaust pipes. The DOHC "hi output engine" was a very rare option - especially for 94+!
So, I had to take a day off from work, and drive to Northern NH to have a mechanic install an exhaust.
I had to get up very early, drive many hours. Be there by 7am. And, I was the last one he did during the day. Then, a long drive back home. Ugh!!!

NO ONE would even touch the car in Mass/Conn, because of emission laws/etc - and they couldn't buy the pipes. I just wanted a stock replacement!
Arg!!!


There are a few things I learned with doing my Intrigue exhaust.
1) Use _silicon spray_ to get the metal hangers out of the rubber isolators!
1A) Use silicon spray on the rubber isolators and the metal hangers when installing.

2) Use *3* gaskets for the cat-pipe to resonator coupling.

3) If you put any patch on before hand, secure it with thin bare wire. Use many many wraps.

4) Many of the body metal hangers for the rubber isolators on the body, are welded to the body. There's a decent chance the body metal hangers may pull-off/rust-off.

I use steel/metal two-part epoxy putty to secure/rebuild any hangers. Make sure that the body area is clean and down to bare metal. Clean with Acetone.
The epoxy putty need something to stick/adhere to. I use small sheet metal screws, screwed into the body. Then, put the epoxy putty over the bare metal and the screwed-in sheet metal screws.


Good Luck!
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  #25  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cutlass350 View Post
That does sound like possibly the IAC. Cheap ones fail for many reasons.


Walker is the only option. I just replaced my exhaust around December.
Yea, it "kinda" sucks.

But, even around 2000, for my '94 Achieva with "dual exhaust" on the quad-4 4-cyl DOHC, no one made the single to dual exhaust pipes. The DOHC "hi output engine" was a very rare option - especially for 94+!
So, I had to take a day off from work, and drive to Northern NH to have a mechanic install an exhaust.
I had to get up very early, drive many hours. Be there by 7am. And, I was the last one he did during the day. Then, a long drive back home. Ugh!!!

NO ONE would even touch the car in Mass/Conn, because of emission laws/etc - and they couldn't buy the pipes. I just wanted a stock replacement!
Arg!!!


There are a few things I learned with doing my Intrigue exhaust.
1) Use _silicon spray_ to get the metal hangers out of the rubber isolators!
1A) Use silicon spray on the rubber isolators and the metal hangers when installing.

2) Use *3* gaskets for the cat-pipe to resonator coupling.

3) If you put any patch on before hand, secure it with thin bare wire. Use many many wraps.

4) Many of the body metal hangers for the rubber isolators on the body, are welded to the body. There's a decent chance the body metal hangers may pull-off/rust-off.

I use steel/metal two-part epoxy putty to secure/rebuild any hangers. Make sure that the body area is clean and down to bare metal. Clean with Acetone.
The epoxy putty need something to stick/adhere to. I use small sheet metal screws, screwed into the body. Then, put the epoxy putty over the bare metal and the screwed-in sheet metal screws.


Good Luck!
Thank you for the input. Going to buy a new Delphi IAC valve, EVAP Vent Solenoid (or test the current one before I buy it), and a new engine air filter since it's due for a new one.
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  #26  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Join Date: May 2014
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Ordered said parts on Friday, as well as a connector for the Vent Solenoid to test the non-functioning one. I also patched my exhaust on Sunday, however, the joint from the catalytic converter to the resonator has a gap in between. So, on Thursday, I'm going to buy new flanges, gaskets, and an exhaust pipe to put in between the resonator and catalytic converter to silence the exhaust noise.
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  #27  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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Fwiw:

Looking at the image below, on the flange between #1 and #2 above, Walker calls for two gaskets. I wasn't sure why.
The gaskets were cheap, so I bought two gaskets.

I put one gasket on, and there was a very noticeable exhaust leak between the flanges. I could easily hear and feel the exhaust gases.

So, I put the two gaskets on. Now, when the exhaust is cold, I can hear a slight exhaust leak/noise. Once the engine and exhaust get up to temperature, the exhaust is quiet.

When I get around to it, once the weather gets better, and I have time, I'll put three gaskets between those two flanges.









Good Luck!
.

Last edited by Cutlass350; 2 Weeks Ago at 02:38 AM.
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