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Oldsmobile Forum: Decisions...
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  #1  
Old May 20th, 2018
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Decisions...

Welp, have to make a tough decision on my ultra clean 02 Final 500 Intrigue. Have done all the usual repairs over the years since I bought her used in 06 @ 31k. Many repairs myself. 136K now. Still drives great. Remaining issues are no AC (pinhole leak), fuel gauge out (sending unit?), VATS no start/reset procedure. I pulled the BCM a month ago, sanded the contacts and haven't had to do the reset since, though security light remains. This was after replacing both the lock cylinder and ignition switch in the past... sigh. Finally, shop told me complete alignment is getting difficult due to some seized cam bolts. Complicating matters is I just had the entire front end repainted under warranty due to clear coat peeling off. Got hit in 2010 and after 8 years collision place did it no ?'s asked. Body/paint otherwise is also in great condition. No other visible rust.... except...

Dreaded rust under the fuel door. Starting to get bad. Had "fixed" 6 years ago at a Carsmetics but came back (no warranty, of course). Recently got a quote for $2500 to do it right. Could be more. Anybody else have this fixed recently? Trying to decide whether to find a guy to grind and fill or just pass her along to some kid to get some enjoyment out of her. Not long for new tires too. Like I said, she's near like new inside and out, smooth engine and tranny. I put tons of work in her over the years. But who knows how long before a tranny solenoid goes...

Oh well, just thought I'd vent my thoughts on my relationship that may have run its course. But I'm still in love. She just feels good.
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  #2  
Old May 20th, 2018
mikeaurora mikeaurora is offline
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Don't know where you are located (must be somewhere there is snow and hard working salt crews), but the rust mitigation by the fuel door is just a thing on these cars from what I've seen here in the NE US. A few hours in the afternoon in a garage with a few brews and some careful work and it can be slowed down for years to come. As to the VATS, there are ways to circumvent that system with a lot of Utube vids, I've done it on a few GMs in the past and it involves measuring resistance in a wire in the steering column and inserting a resistor with close to the same value, it's been so long since I've done one I'd have to look again to recall exactly how it's done.
134a with dye and a blacklight will show the freon leak (almost always a leaking o-ring or bad valve or port cap).
I'm guessing you are talking about the bolts on the struts, I just did lower control arms on my 20OO Intrigue so I did not change the strut positions, but I would have to think that if you continually over time sprayed a good penetrating lube on the bolt, over time it would loosen enough to either adjust or remove and replace-and worst case, careful use of a cutoff tool will fix that problem with some determination. I occasionally get a P1811 (long shift) and solved it by installing a trans cooler with a pusher fan in front, even though I always did service the trans...thought being, even if a problem develops with the trans, there are ways around a complete rebuild with creative solutions.
I guess what I'm saying is, it's desirable (final 500), you apparently like it, and the problems are not really considerable since it is 15 years old. It does not have high miles (mine is at 171,000 and still runs flawlessly), and you'd have a hard time replacing it with anything nicer-with just some commitment from you to fix the things that are annoying you.
I hope you work on it and hang on to it.
.
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Old May 20th, 2018
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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Hard to say with pictures.

Also, look under the car when the rear trailing arm connects to a bracket that bolts to the uni-body. Mine rusted away a few years ago. Easy to fix before it fails and potentially ruins the independent rear end and the rear shock tower supports (from the shock pulling on it).

Good Luck!
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Old May 21st, 2018
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Hi Mike,

Thanks for the reply. I had the p1811 a couple years in and they recommended a tranny flush and filter which I already recently had done. Also diagnosed a crankshaft position sensor with a p1372. Anyway, the p1811 and shifting issues were resolved after the CPS replace. Not sure if related or just coincidental, but I read somewhere the CPS can affect shifting while others say no. As for now, I was in recent years getting some faint shudders on certain rare trips in the summer when it's real hot. I put synthetic fluid in when I did the last pan drop and filter so maybe that is helping keep temps down and hold off bigger problems. Also tossed some Liqui Moly 20040 ATF Additive in. Haven't noticed the shudder yet this year.

As for the VATS... I do have a remote starter in it which I thought might be worsening the issue but disabled it for the past couple years. I took it back to the installer last year but they couldn't/wouldn't do anything since my battery was going. Now, after finally getting around to cleaning the BCM contacts, I've been able to use it again with no issue so far. But I mainly used it to warm up/defrost in the winter anyway. Which brings us to the AC... My freon started a slow leak 5 years ago and I took it in twice but they never could find the leak... just kept evac and recharging in '13 and '14 at $150 a pop. I recharged myself in '15 but after that it got too low to take a charge. I gave up and just kept the windows open. I did run power directly to the compressor and it ran fine, but it's been a couple years now. I just envision a huge bill and, like I said, I've gone without for a while now. The masochist in me... I do dream of AC again though....

The rust has gotten up into the curved area under the fuel door so I'm not confident I can do a good, lasting job on it. But now that I looked at it again, I'm thinkin' I might give it a shot. I don't know, the rot is through both panels. I need to find a new fuel cap insert/housing though. Body shop cracked it and glued part of it down during the previous fix. Can't seem to find the part info. Gotta call the salvage yard.
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Old May 21st, 2018
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Thanks Cutlass, mine look decent but I'll take a closer look.
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  #6  
Old June 25th, 2018
wolfvan88 wolfvan88 is offline
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For your AC, get a AC gauge set with vacuum pump attachment. That might allow you to get it charged up again.


https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS...s=ac+guage+set

add a pump and it just might get you cold again.
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  #7  
Old June 25th, 2018
wolfvan88 wolfvan88 is offline
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Found you the cracked fuel housing...

3 10435919 Filler Pocket $15.04 $9.26

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-p...omponents-scat

Last edited by wolfvan88; June 25th, 2018 at 11:32 AM.
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  #8  
Old August 1st, 2018
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Thanks Wolf

I found a good body guy through my mechanic and got the fuel door area rust repaired right for just over $1000 with a new fuel housing and door (original had rusted too badly where the hinge connects to the car). As for the AC... Watched a couple videos and it looks like a fun job, but I guess I'll just bite the bullet and find a shop that can finally find my leak and fix it right.
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