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Oldsmobile Forum: 1994 Cutlass Supreme
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  #1  
Old December 6th, 2011
Steel Head Steel Head is offline
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1994 Cutlass Supreme

Hi i got a 1994 Cutlass supreme 3.4L V6, I am experiencing Starting problems.
When i got to start the car the engine does not crank all i hear is the clicking from the starter. I put a new Battery & Starter in thinking i had a bad starter, but still the same, its like its not getting enough power to crank but like i said i got a new battery

Thanks for any info

Last edited by Steel Head; December 9th, 2011 at 05:23 AM.
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Old December 8th, 2011
revon revon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel Head View Post
Hi i got a 1994 Cutlass supreme 3.4L V6, I am experiencing Starting problems.
When i got to start the car the engine does not crack all i hear is the clicking from the starter. I put a new Battery & Starter in thinking i had a bad starter, but still the same, its like its not getting enough power to crack but like i said i got a new battery

Thanks for any info
What is crack supposed to mean? and if it seems like it's not getting enough power to turn it over, start looking at the ground connection. You only need to post the question once...................
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Old December 9th, 2011
Steel Head Steel Head is offline
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i cleaned all connections, and grounds.

"Crack" was suppose to be "Crank"!! And i dont konw how to delete a post
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Old December 9th, 2011
revon revon is offline
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Hmmm, sounds like maybe the cables are crapping out inside at the connection bases. Beyond that, all I can think of is the starter not having a clean ground, meaning where it bolts in may have corrosion. The battery is connected directly to the starter, the little wire is used to activate the starter solenoid, which is fed from the ignition switch on the lower side of the steering column. Not that it should matter any as far as power goes, but have you tried putting a screw driver across the battery feed terminal and the little wire terminal..... to see if it cranks any better? This by passes the switch on the column, as I said it really shouldn't make a difference.
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Old December 28th, 2011
Ton801 Ton801 is offline
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I know it's been two weeks since last response but:

Could it be the VATS security malfunctioning? Does the security light go off after a few seconds or stay on? I have suffered from this problem before. For me, the ignition key holder & key are getting worn out. Sometimes it can't read the resistor pellet in the key. Search for VATS.
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Old December 28th, 2011
revon revon is offline
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Steel Head, I've given this a lot of thought, and think I have answer for you. I have one of these cars, with that engine, but in a convertible..... anyway I had totally forgotten that I had this happen to mine about 2 years ago. On the LT side of the engine compartment, located between the battery and strut tower, is a fuse box. You will find a smaller cable coming off the positive terminal on the battery to the stud on that fuse box. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery and then take the nut off the cable on the stud on the fuse box. You will need some sand paper to clean this cable end off, and sand the surface of the nut and stud the best you can. Reassemble, and it should work better. Mine was in worse shape, the stud and the plastic that holds it fatigued and broke, I had to get a used one at a yard and slip it on my old box. I had to clean all the connections, and the problem was solved. I know you said you changed the battery and starter.... but, assuming that your 3.4 is like most of the other 94 3.4 dohc's, you have a volt meter on the right side of your cluster? Ok, what you need to do is get the car started, watch the meter, it should stay above 13 v. If the alt is no good, the needle will be below 13 v and discharging, never moving to 13v. This car also has a safety feature built into the alt, if there is an electrical fault, the alt will shut off after approx 15 seconds of the car running, and the meter will drop like a rock. This means that it is not charging. If the battery is not being charged, then it will be weak and drag when you try to start it later. Now, there is something that you don't know about this car with the 3.4 dohc engine. For some reason, and this seemed to happen a lot to these cars, but the engine wiring harness breaks. I had this happen to mine several times, and I bought a used harness, and that one did it too. The harness has wires rubbing their insulation till one wears through and the wire is exposed. The wire corrodes and eventually breaks. This all takes place where the harness comes out from under the engine, and meets the main harness near the lower trans cooler line. I've had the alt shut down from this one time, the car just shut down on the highway another time without warning, abs lights stay on another time, etc. I would start with the LT side fuse box first, then go from there.

Last edited by revon; December 28th, 2011 at 02:15 AM.
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  #7  
Old December 9th, 2018
woodyBR549 woodyBR549 is offline
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Guys, Guys, Guys. Really? Come on. If the no-start was being caused by the VATS, there would be NO clicking heard from the starter. When the key is turned, you get...NOTHING!
How about we first ask this guy or gal or anyone with a similar problem, if the engine will actually rotate by having them turn it by hand at the crank with a wrench. If it doesn't, well it's time to play "Taps" and shoot it!
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