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Oldsmobile Forum: Key stuck in on position, does start
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  #1  
Old July 4th, 2019
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Key stuck in on position, does start

Sorry if there is a thread for this... Couldn't find one.

02 model. My key cannot be removed and cannot be turned to off or accessory. Stuck on but will start the car (when the passlock 2 vats works). Anyone deal with this?

First off, is the ignition switch at fault or the lock cylinder? I have both on the way. Least expensive RockAuto had.

I've seen that drilling to get to the release pin is probably my only option. I figure if I can disintegrate the mount point of the spring, the pin will drop down and I can turn/pull out the cylinder while not damaging anything else.



Finally, apart from salvage yard, anyone have a link to buy a new keyhole bezel for the Intrigue. Found Malibu/Alero's but not Intrigue with the clear illumination ring.

Thanks guys!

Last edited by TruBrewMan; July 4th, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
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Old July 4th, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Try wiggling the key and see if it turns. Sometimes, a worn key can cause the ignition cylinder to lock up. The 2000 Intrigue we had did that as well with a worn key. Worn keys mean the coating on the key itself is peeling off and shows a copper or brassy finish on the key itself instead of metallic.

If you have a spare key, compare that key with the other that's in the ignition cylinder and see if there's a difference in color. Remember: replacing the ignition cylinder or the whole thing requires programming by a GM technician and can cost a lot in some cases and the new keys that it comes with would only work with the ignition and the other keys can only be used with the doors, trunk, and glove box.

Also, make sure that you got the recall taken care of on your car as well as that was 5 years ago that the recall was released for the 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigues at that time. Good thing I got the recall fixed on my 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue 4 years ago as well as the POS 2000 Intrigue that had a lot of issues with the exhaust and other things.
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Old July 5th, 2019
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Thanks 01

Unfortunately, I've wiggled a few pounds off by now.

I've replaced my ignition switch and lock cylinder before and you just have to do the 30 minute reset procedure at most for Passlock 2 VATS. Absolutely no reprogramming by GM tech necessary. I have a remote starter which I think has caused more problems for me with the vats. I won't even go into that.

Last time, I re-keyed the new cylinder to work with my old key. Not sure if I feel like doing that again. Probably just use 2 keys. The keyless locks pretty much negate having to use keys for doors and trunk. I'll hide a magnet key box somewhere just in case. I did get my keys fixed during the recall and the new keys I just got with the new cylinder are good. But that was really just a CYA move by GM anyway. Gotta have a lot of keys hanging with a well used ignition to potentially cause a problem, which I never do. Also, remote start lessens wear and tear on the switch.

Well, new switch and cylinder came today. Time to get drilling.

Last edited by TruBrewMan; July 5th, 2019 at 04:01 PM.
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Old July 6th, 2019
TruBrewMan TruBrewMan is offline
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Smile Success!

I was able to drill through the soft. thin die-cast metal and, as planned, chew up the mount point of the spring under the locking pin. I was then able to use a wrench to turn the lock cylinder and pull it out with the key. Sadly, I wasn't careful enough during drilling and scuffed up my dash a little due to short drill bits. I'll try to buff it smooth.

The cheapie new ignition switch I bought didn't function as smoothly and positively as my current one. In fact, it slides past the "accessory" position to and from "off" and "on" with nary a click and doesn't turn as smoothly overall. Could just need to break in, but I'm not taking chances. Luckily, the current one was in perfect working order, so I just reinstalled it and will send the other back to Rockauto for a full refund. And no reset procedure needed.

Conclusion: It seems the old lock cylinder (a replacement from ~3 years ago) either went bad or my re-keying job using a few of the old tumblers and springs was the culprit. I suspect he latter. That said, I just left the cylinder as is this time and will use different keys. No biggie. And I can always do it later.
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Old 1 Week Ago
wolfvan88 wolfvan88 is offline
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Just a thought on a discovery I make in regards to the keylock cylinder:

If you remove the radio and look in the access hole to the right of the ignition switch, you can see the ignition key assembly and the tab that you press with the key in the run position to remove the cylinder can easily be pressed in and the whole assembly can be removed.

I have been removing the cluster and whole ignition assembly getting to the release tab from in the dash.

As I was thumbing through the OEM manual, there it was in black and white page 8-648... An easier way to get the lock cylinder out.

I think you could have gotten yours out that way without drilling.

When I go to a salvage yard and the car has a key, I get the entire set of lock cylinders. If it turns without catching in the ignition. I have several complete sets now.
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