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Oldsmobile Forum: 2001 losing coolant when parked, no leaks and not overheating
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  #1  
Old October 15th, 2018
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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2001 losing coolant when parked, no leaks and not overheating

Here's the background story. A couple of weeks ago, I got my cooling system flushed and fixed due to a crimped hose, and I also replaced the thermostat on the car. However, I have to add coolant to the reservoir, but, I don't see any leaks and it's not overheating, the compression is good, the engine is running without issues, and it has a smell when it's warming up. Before the issue started after getting the system flushed, the cap was too loose and it shot straight up and it hasn't blown off ever since. What would be the cause of the coolant to get lost? Should I replace the cap for the cooling system?

I also don't hear the coolant bubbling, I checked the oil dip stick and there's no sign of coolant on there and the car is currently at the shop due to a power steering issue again (leaking and there's barely any fluid in the reservoir, and turns into a milky substance, which means there's air in the pump) and getting the oil changed.

Edit: had the car parked on the driveway for a week and no fluid loss until I had to remove the reservoir to get to the power steering pump and tension pulley.

Last edited by 01OldsIntrigueOwner; October 22nd, 2018 at 04:33 PM.
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Old January 3rd, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Well, my car is starting to lose coolant, however, my head gaskets still pass the test (no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil), and I noticed my coolant recovery tank has coolant all over the place in the center, on the hose (sending unit hose that connects to the thermostat), and on the belt tension pulley. Also, when I turn my car off, I see smoke coming out when I open the hood. My plan is to order a new recovery tank and inspect/replace the hoses. The thermostat I have is the one from Autozone (aftermarket).

It's not the tank, hoses, or water pump. Dummy me got the wrong coolant, but, it's still Dex-Cool (got the one that wasn't the 50/50 mixture a while ago, and purchased the 50/50 version today, which I will drain the current coolant and put the appropriate coolant in). Luckily, it was the correct antifreeze (Dex-Cool), but, not the 50/50 mixture.

Last edited by 01OldsIntrigueOwner; January 4th, 2019 at 08:08 PM.
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Old January 11th, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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The coolant is still leaking and I found the source of the issue: the water pump is gone. I'm going to buy high temp engine thread sealer and a gasket sealant to prevent the gasket from slipping off when replacing the pump.

I found a how-to guide on ye olde Internet: https://99intrigue.shutterfly.com/waterpump for how to replace the pump itself. Pretty handy, if you ask me. Going to buy some more coolant as well to be on the safe side and replace said pump tomorrow morning. I checked the oil cap and no milky substance on the cap, no coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, and only the condensation in the exhaust is coming out of the muffler, which is a good sign that the head gaskets are still in good condition.
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  #4  
Old January 12th, 2019
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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No need for high temp silicon.
Get the real Ultra Copper, and you'll be fine.

A few notes:
The timing cover surface must be VERY clean, as shown in the photo.
I use a "wire toothbrush" (get it at Home Depot) and Acetone.

The belt is MUCH EASIER when put on from underneath!!!
It's even easier if you have a good serpentine belt tool.
For me, I like the following tool the best:
Lisle 59000 Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-59000-R...dp/B0019CQL2E/

Before, from the top, and using wrenches, it would take me ~15+ mins to put on the belt.
One summer, it was hot, humid, Venus was in line with Mars, etc. ;-) So, it took me over an hour. And, my hands where scraped and banged up pretty well.

Screw that!
So, when I had to replace the idler pulley, I also bought the Lisle 59000 tool. Hey, it's still cheaper than having a mechanic do the work. And, I now have this great tool!

Putting on the belt from underneath, and with the Lisle 59000 tool, I was like WTF?
That was way too easy!
Something must be wrong!

Good Luck!

Last edited by Cutlass350; January 12th, 2019 at 06:14 AM.
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Old January 12th, 2019
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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Picture attached using the tool.
Nice tool! :-)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg oldsIdlerPulley10-30-2018Pic01.jpg (89.9 KB, 6 views)
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  #6  
Old January 13th, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Planning on getting it installed sometime soon as I now have the part itself, but no floor jacks to raise the right front wheel to remove the wheel, splash guard, and the belt. Last time I took the belt off was when I was replacing the power steering pump w/ the reservoir since the old one had a leak at the reservoir and it was better to replace it since the pump's bearing was rusting out.
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Old January 13th, 2019
Cutlass350 Cutlass350 is offline
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If you don't even have a floor jack, then you're likely better off getting the water pump installed.
It's a big PITA job to do! And, it's easy to strip the bolt holes in the aluminum block. If that happens, then someone could be Very F******d.

Fwiw, a newly offered floor jack is great!
Note, the old model has the same model number. So, either buy it in person, or only from Amazon!
People have been warned. So, if a fool buys it from ebay, and gets stuck with the old model, then that is what people get for being foolish and not listening.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PX8BC2
Torin Big Red Steel Scissor Jack, 1.5 Ton (3,000 lb) Capacity
Price: $14.95


Also, the following is awesome when using Scissor Jacks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D316WNQ



.

Last edited by Cutlass350; January 13th, 2019 at 08:08 PM.
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  #8  
Old January 14th, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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I already have that type of jack, but the mounts on the car are crumbling (in some small spots), which isn't good at all. I'm also planning on taking my car to the car repair shop to get the cooling system looked at. Might just be a bad hose, however, it's not leaking out when I'm driving, only when it sits to cool down.

Last edited by 01OldsIntrigueOwner; January 14th, 2019 at 04:36 PM.
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  #9  
Old January 21st, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Over the weekend, I re-seated the coolant hose that goes to the thermostat housing from the tank, added some coolant, left the cap off for a while, and started the car to belch the cooling system (air in the passageways). After about 30 seconds or so, I topped the coolant tank off. I bought another gallon of 50/50 Dexcool and placed it behind the passenger seat yesterday when I bought 2x 1 gallon of 2-in-1 windshield fluid that can withstand -25F temperatures and new wiper blades for my mom's '07 Uplander. Pretty soon, I'm going to drive my car around and see how it performs and make sure the temperature doesn't overshoot the half way marker. I also don't see any leaks, which is a good thing.
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Old February 6th, 2019
01OldsIntrigueOwner 01OldsIntrigueOwner is offline
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Well, I found the problem. It was leaking out coolant from the return port on the top right of the coolant recovery tank. Why that happened was because I was attempting to take the hose off of the tank when I was doing the power steering on my car and pulled it too hard, and luckily, the hose wasn't damaged. I bought a new one at O'reilly Auto Parts store (formally Murray's Auto Parts) on Saturday and installed it on Sunday. I carefully inspected the hoses and clamps before installing the new tank and I checked the cap, and the coolant level sensor on the old tank and they looked pretty good still. No more steam coming from the tank, no coolant on the belt, and no squeaking from the pulleys. The coolant is still full and I'm glad I finally got the cooling system fixed on my car.
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